>
> Now, when the battery is connected and key on, the resistor cable is
> physically hot (i.e., to the touch) - throughout its length. Testing with
> one of the little pencil testers shows a nice bright light at the
> beginning of the resistor cable (i.e., near where it connects in with the
> several white+ wires), decreasing brightness as you go toward the
> connection with WLG, and nothing at the point where it does connect with
> WLG at the left-front (though it's still pretty warm to the touch at that
> point). I assume that these observations are exactly as they should be;
> what else could a resistor cable do in life?
>
> Now to observations at the other end of the WLG circuit. Well, there isn't
> much to report. On the big battery connection with all the brown wires,
> there's lots of juice. There's nothing at the WLG wire.
>
> Somebody got any advice on what I should check for, do, learn, try, dream
> up next? I'd sure appreciate any wisdom you can give. My problem is that I
> really have no idea of how things are SUPPOSED to be, if functioning
> correctly! My other problem is that I'm getting tired of being without
> wheels. Obviously, the first problem is at the root of the second )-:
>
> Thanks,
> Lynnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
>
The resistor wire takes the place of a ballast resistor. It's job is to
limit *slightly* the amount of power the coil can consume. Roger did a
pretty good article on the reasons for this a while back, and I believe it
got posted on the ftp server (can't check, I don't have ftp access). The
W/LG wire from the starter is to effectively bypass this resistor when the
car is being cranked. When the starter is engaged, the voltage in the
entire system drops, and at the time you want max power from the coil. So
they bypass the dropping resistor. So, the post on the starter should
only be hot when the starter is engaged.
Unplug the W/B wires from the minus side of the coil. With the key on, you
should read battery voltage on the positive side of the coil. If not, and the
resistor wire is still getting hot, you have a dead shrot to ground in the
W/LG wiring. It may be the starter solenoid itself, which would explain why
that wire smoked out.
If you read approx 12 volt on the positive side with the negative side
unhooked, but close to 0 volt with it hooked up, then I would guess you
damaged the resistor wire when the first wire shorted out. Assuming that
the car was runnning when that first wire melted, not cranking, then all
the power to smoke the wire came through that resistor.
Randy
randy@taylor.wyvern.com
P.S. Gang, am I missing something here? Lately, since the great mailer
change at Truimph, a lot of list traffic has come in without the original
senders address attached. This means I have to bomb the whole list with
replies like this. Is this something Truimph is doing, or is my mail
reader going flakey again?
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