I THINK (notice I say I THINK and not I think) that to check for valve guide
integrity you see if the valve has ANY lateral movement in the guide, if it does
you must replace. If you must replace get bronze guides (alittle more spendy
but they will last forever, and get Bullet shapped to increase gass flow past th
em in the parts). I have been told that you can remove the valve springs withou
t removing the head. Do the following: stuff some house electrical wire with
good insulation and NO sharp bits of metal wire showing into the the comb
chamber through the spark plug hole. You can turn the crank to push up the
wire against the CLOSED valves. Now you can push down
New mail on node OREGON from IN%"jtc@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu"
wire against the CLOSED valves. Now you can push down on the spring and remove
the two retaining "bits". As alternatives to the wire you can use hemp rope
but That would probably leaves lots of crud in the comb chamb OR use compressed
air shot down the tube of a compression test tube.
As a quick and dirty (BUT I HATE QUICK AND DIRTY) repair for the vac leak
in the inlet gasket (if that is where it is) you could try and unbolt the
manifold(s) and pull them as far away as you can get then put a thin bead
of blue hylamar gasket compond around all ports, especially inlet ones, both sid
es of the gasket. Then bolt it back together. you can use a peice of plastic
tube with a thin end to get the hylamar into the tight places.
Keep us informed.
My mystery vac leak on my midget was a plugged up disconected emmission pipe
into the inlet manifold. The local Brit car place (a bunch of W....ankers)
at one time said i had a vac leak at the inlet gasget. But NO.
Good luck. DW
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