Part 3 of 4
I just thought of one other possibility. For everyone having overheating
problems, check your heat riser! It is on the drivers side of the engine where
the header (exhaust) pipe is connected to the exhaust manifold. You'll see
a large metal blob (weight) on one side and a spring on the other
side. I believe
that there is also a vacuum motor attached to the side without the weight. You
should be able to move the weight up and down. This opens and closes a flap
in the exhaust pipe to help the engine heat up quickly when it's cold. If the
weight doesn't move, then it is frozen. But in which position. If it moves,
that is a good thing, but doesn't mean it is working. You will have
to drop the
header pipe, and look at the valve to be sure it moves with the shaft.
If you have one of the IR thermometers, try reading the temp on the exhaust
pipes just behind the exhaust manifold. Start the car, drive it
around the block
to warm it up. Then measure the temperature of the 2 exhaust pipes and or
manifolds. If they are pretty close to the same time you valve is
probably open.
But is it working? You can try to let the engine cool for several
hours and start it.
Then going back and forth between side check the temps. The drivers
side should heat up faster than the passenger's side. If not, then
the valve is most
likely stuck open.
On my car, this was all messed up. The shaft was rusted in one position, and
the flapper valve was broken and frozen in the closed position. When I had a
new exhaust system made, we couldn't find a new heat riser assembly so we
deleted it from my car. I will have problems with cold idling and
running until
the engine warms up. But I figure that is better than the problems this valve
can cause, over heating, percolating the fuel in the carb. and burning the fire
wall.
>At the moment the in my opinion the engine is too high in idle, after it
>gets warmer it gets better, but -if warm or cold- when I try to accelerate
What is you idle speed in drive with the brakes applied? It should be about
700 rpm but up to 1,000 is fine. In fact, on all my 4 cylinders engines with a
manual transmission I set the idle to 1,000 rpm.
>from a stop-sign or traffic-light it tries to die. The last months
I tried with
>some experienced friend to calibrate the timing and fuel injection
but it seems
>without any success.
This is a seperate problem and won't cause overheating.
Did you rebuild the carburetor? It sounds like your accelerator pump is not
working properly. If you are used to the old SU and Stromburg side draft
carburetors they don't have accelerator pumps, but down draft Strombergs do.
The accelerator pump shoots an additional shot of gas down into the carburetor
when you accelerate so it doesn't stumble.
You can check this buy removing the air filter and holding the choke
plate open,
look into the carburetor and then have someone step on the gas pedal or work
the accelerator linkage at the carburetor. You should see a stream
of gas going
down the throat of the carburetor. If you don't then that is probably your
problem when trying to accelerate.
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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