> No, I didn't think you did. Most of us have been
around long enough, we
> have more to do with thin hair than thin air.
======
In my case, the air is thicker than the hair. :^((
======
> Well, I really hesistate to call myself an expert
at anything, except
> perhaps
> getting into trouble. Myh background is quite
checkered, I hold degrees in
> design enguneering, bringing myself up through the
ranks from environmental
> to noise, to sound, to audio, to blah blah blah,
and now to ex-ceo of
> Bauhaus of America. So atleast I have the "ex" in
expert down pat. But
> after my "midlife crisis", I decided to pursue
other interests and now I am
> a professor and doctoral candidate in clinical
psychology.
> Along the way is a host of interests and a keen
curiosity and determined
> sense for detail and resolution. I also bake a
mean lasagne.
======
Impressive! Me, I was born lazy and had a relapse.
:^))
======
> Ah the answer. Well, after consulting the gods and
the tarot, we came to
> the conclusion that champion #2095 [the gold equiv.
of RC9YC] gapped at
> .45-.55 was the right starting point. Ofcourse,
finding 8 champion plugs
> with a centered electrode is a feat in and of
itself. This is for
> edelbrock heads/intake/cam with tri-y headers, a
double pumper 650Holley
> running lean, and a msd ign, coil, and pro dist
and taylor 409s[and a bunch
> of other crap]. I wrote all the details of this
setup in an earlier post.
======
Hmm, so you did. For some reason I didn't read the
whole post, and missed the lengthy list of mods.
Should be a real sweety.
I noticed that you're planning on using some Mustang
headers. Is TT no longer offering his design?
BTW, what's so special about a 4150 DP w/vacuum
secondaries? They've been around since the late '60s.
It's my street carb of choice.
======
> All their racing plugs were too cold, and the
standard edel fitment spec was
> too hot.
======
Bummer.
======
> > No, I've never bothered to measure it since I
don't
> > plan to significantly increase the track. It's
pretty
> > large though based on how bad it scrubs with
stock
> > rims. It's why I prefer the slight negative
camber.
> > =====
> Now you lost me, scrub radius is basically the
suspension geometry where the
> centerline of the tire/wheel lines up with the axis
of the ball joints
> during travel [sorta, waaay over-simplified]. It
basically determines where
> the load is placed, and is determined to be either
positive or negative
> depending on whether the suspension axes are inside
or outside the
> centerline of the tire.
=====
I've never heard it called positive or negative, per
se; but since a positive offset wheel gives less
scrub radius, and vice versa, it seems reasonable.
Less (positive) is better.
=====
This is a critical measure, but one often
> overlooked and not to be confused with tire
scrubbing.
=====
True. The Bricklin has negative offset wheels, ergo
it has a large scrub radius by default. Since you
can't install wheels to improve it enough to
matter, it's moot IMO, unless you plan to
significantly increase track.
The scrub radius is in part responsible for tire
scrubbing, hence it's name.
=====
And even rarer is the
> alignment tech that has even a clue to what it
means.
=====
No need for them to, unless they work at a high perf
wheel emporium. I learned most of what I know from an
alignment tech at Gene White's Firestone, the S.E.
racing tire distributor at the time.
=====
Hell, if it wasn't
> for Daryl, I wouldn't either. Camber will only
follow whatever the scrub
> radius is, no matter where you set it, due to
suspension travel.
=====
Assuming the wheel's not loose. :^))
=====
> >
> Got any pics??? Or know somehwhere i can get more
info on them?
=====
Not anymore. They were custom ordered in '80. All my
mags of the time are gone, but if you have access to
Hot Rod, etc. of the time, they were pictured in ads.
That's how I found them.
=====
>Ain't life grand.
=====
It has it's moments.
GM
> stephan
> #2821
>
>
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