On Thu, 20 Jun 2002 09:17:55 -0400, "Burns, James B."
<James.Burns@jhuapl.edu> said:
>My tow vehicle is a V8 AWD Ford Explorer. I have used it to tow an old
open
>heavy steel car hauler with a 2500# car, 8 extra wheels/tires, tools, some
>spares, canopy, wife, and dogs, and it has done just fine, even in the
West
>Virginia hills. I am considering getting a small aluminum enclosed
trailer,
>about 18' inside length, and I was wondering if the Exploder could handle
>it. I figure the extra weight would be about 800#, which I don't think
>would be a problem. But besides weight there are other issues like wind
>resistance and stability in cross winds and probably other things that I
>haven't thought of. Any opinions/experience on this?
As long as the total weight is below the rating for the Explorer, it will
work -- it may not be very HAPPY about it, but it can do it. To minimize
the wind resistance, consider a "slope front" trailer. You'll give up some
storage area in front of the car, but it will greatly reduce the drag
factor. Also go as narrow and as short (roof height) as you can get away
with.
You'll want electric brakes on the trailer, preferably 4-wheel rather than
2-wheel. Play with the position of the car over the axles to get the
tongue weight where it should be (approx. 10% of the total weight of the
loaded trailer), although 18 feet of box won't give you a lot of room to
play with. If it's a front-engined car, just plan on loading it as far
rearward as you can and still close the door.
Obviously, you'll be running equalizer bars. I would also consider a
sway-control device, particularly if you travel in areas with lots of
crosswinds. I use the Draw-Tite friction model (well, I use two of them,
actually, but I've got a 26' Classic that is about 9K pounds with my usual
pile o' stuff) and it works very well.
Other options to consider: a left-side "driver access" door on the trailer
that will allow you to get in and out of the car without having to Dukes of
Hazzard in a narrow space. You might be thin enough to get away with that
-- I can, but at 6'4", 250-260 lbs, it isn't pretty to watch. I'll
probably put the access door in my next trailer (or just fix the winch
wiring in this one so I can use that again!). Ramp door with beavertail in
the trailer makes loading and unloading low cars easier. Get the best
tie-downs you can. I have fixed D-rings sunk into the floor and bolted to
the trailer structure. Some people use E-track. Consider a roof vent
(manual) and maybe even insulation in the walls and roof -- with a suitable
generator and a portable AC unit like the DeLonghi Penguino, you can AC the
trailer in paddock on hot days, which helps keep the wife happy (or at
least less unhappy). Get GOOD locks -- the RV-style side door locks on a
lot of trailers these days are pot metal and can be fairly easily defeated.
Consider adding a deadbolt and making sure it's tied into the structure of
the trailer.
I won't go open-trailer again if I can help it. Enclosed is the way to go.
Jim Crider
autojim@att.net
TDY in St. Louis, home tomorrow!
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Partial archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|