Jan, From what I recall you are correct about what the service manual says.
In my case, removing the ring gear in a serviceable state was done by a 70
year old professional machinist who briefly (2 min max) heated the ring gear
and then proceeded to pound the gear off incrementally around its
circumference. It took all of one minute for it to pop off intact. Said
that's how they did it 50 years ago!
Installing the ring gear, I believe the manual (or some internet site)
called for placing it in an oven (best if wife not home!) at 300 C (NO
HOTTER) for 30 minutes. I did this, also flipped the ring gear and the
ring gear slipped on very easily. It has been good-to-go for 3 years and
6,000 miles so I probably just got lucky. Of course that's not to say that
the next time I crank it there won't be a horrific LBC grinding in that
location!
As for flipping, again you're right about what the manual says and due to
the beveled ring gear it appears that flipping can't work. Apparently the
starter pinon is long enough to extend past the bevel into the gear proper.
This bit of wisdom came from one of our principal parts suppliers!
I'll say one thing about working on an Alpine - for a neophyte such as
myself it has been a fascinating learning experience thanks to all the
Alpine Gurus such as yourself and other Listers. Many. many thanks to all
of you from my purring SV and myself.
All the best,
Vlad
1966 SV 395005683 LRXOD
Ramsey, New Jersey
>From: jumpinjan <jservaites@woh.rr.com>
>To: Vladimir Broz <svalpine@hotmail.com>
>CC: piperbill@isp01.net, alpines@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Starting / Grounding problems
>Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 15:03:40 -0700
>
>Yes, one can rotate the gear so that the starter doesn't always hit the
>same teeth (I have noticed that apparently the engine usually stops at
>some common location in it's cycles and it's usually the same teeth that
>get the starter impact). The problem here is you can't get the ring gear
>to hot with a torch, otherwise it doesn't seem to cool to the original
>diameter and will walk off the flywheel. Look at some flywheels and
>sometimes there is a gap starting between the gear & the flywheel. To
>keep the ring gear on, usually it's okay to lay a small bead of weld to
>secure it.
>Look at the Rootes shop manual and you will see that the removal is to
>use a gas torch on the damaged ring gear. However, to heat up the new
>replacement gear, a hot oil bath is used and I think that's to avoid
>overheating the new gear.
>I don't understand "flipping" the gear over. The gear is only installed
>in one direction & shouldn't be installed backwards.
>Jan
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