It's been a while since I've opened my BIG mouth, so let's get it ALL out
there. Maybe I can start a new riot.
1). First I am building a 1725 for the race car, BUT the 1600 I have raced
the last two years has been Dead Reliable and I haven't stunk up the track. I
will NOT be able to offer any reliable comparison between the two engines
because the 1600 was built to be reliable and 1725 is being built for all out
power.
IF you spend the time and money on building a 1600 you won't be disappointed.
Many guys have spent a lot of bread on finding, buying, and rebuilding a 1725
for the street where the 1600 they already OWNED would have been a great
rebuild and kept the car original. OH MY GOD I SAID IT !!!!!
2). Much has been touted about the chevy rod conversion. I ain't doing it
that way. The Ford 2000cc rod is pretty much a direct fit and 5.7". Mine are
from Eagle Specialty Products and are a performance rod. I am probably
wrong... but I don't think you will find someone to make pistons for a 1600
with the length of the Chevy or Ford rod. The wrist pin height would have to
be too high even after the crank was offset ground. Some one will tell me I
am wrong, stay tuned.
3). The 1600 has a Crower cam. I dealt direct with Brian. Jarrid and I have
conversed about Crower and I will tell you I agree with him, I think they are
great. HOWEVER, the SB 5 Grind, ( Specs of which I don't have here) was made
up for John Wait Jr's F Prod Alpine in the early 80's. ( Some one will
dispute this.) John had used a number of different cams before this grind was
done for him. His impression was that it died above 8500, BUT had balls
galore getting there. He said " It felt slower because it went away on the
top, but my lap times were quite a bit faster." As we all know it's how quick
you can get away from the turns and reach terminal speed that counts.
My experience in getting the cam outta Isky is a nightmare. I had
conversations with Ron Iskederian and two other guys there. My cam was
received by them on September 13, 2000. I just got it this past Friday,
November whatever. I ordered the SB3 Kit which has inner and outter springs
and a set of tubular push rods. I hope they did it correctly and I will let
you all know.
4). Here's a good argument starter... lifter smifter. It don't make no
difference trying to take the weight outta the valve train through the
lifters. Work the other side of the rocker FIRST. I don't want to drag Jarrid
into this but we have had several consentual discussions on this very topic.
Oh yeah, my machinist is working on modifying a chrysler roller rocker set
for the Alpine valve train. We may fail BUT if we can make it work, it will
make a significant difference in performance. Some one may want to save me
money and time and just tell me it can't be done, but I can be pretty bull
headed. ( I know angles, thrust loads, ratios, shaft diameters, blah blah
blah....)
Well, I pull my head back in and wait for the carnage to begin !!!!
Eric Funk
' 60 Alpine Racer
P.S. I have been shooting pictures of the 1725 engine build and hope to write
an article for Jan and Ian when I get it done. I'll provide all of the specs
and details of a 1965cc Alpine engine. Tee Hee Hee. I can't wait for the Hill
at Road America !!!!
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