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RE: Tube shock conversion

To: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Tube shock conversion
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper@digiscreen.ca>
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 10:38:53 -0500
I saw a british kit advertised once that had 3 mounting points; the two bolts
where the existing Armstrong is attached and the third point where the rubber
bumpstop on the frame contacts the Armstrong's lever arm at the mid-point.
This give the unit resistance to torquing from the side which is what breaks
free the cross-member in my opinion. I could never seem to locate these units
again on the net, and perhaps they were too heavy in the eyes of some, but it
did seem to be a will engineered solution.

Mark
1972 TR6

________________________________

From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net on behalf of michael lunsford
Sent: Mon 06/03/2006 9:20 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Tube shock conversion



In defense of the tube shock conversion and in response to Ryan's comments
listed below about tube shocks cracking shock mounts I have the following
response:

  First of all I am talking about the conversion setup that bolts to the body
at the same place that the old shocks bolted and not that strange setup where
you drill holes in the body to attach the bolts, plates, etc.  I previously
had my lever shocks rebuilt and still wasn't satisfied with their performance
so I went to the Tube shocks (KYB).  I have had the tube shock conversion on
my car for 4 or 5 years without any problem with cracking and I drive my car
pretty aggressively.  I think the tubes have improved the ride and handling
characteristics on my car.

  From what I have picked up from this site over the years, the tube shock
conversion will work fine if you ensure that the bump stops are in good shape
and that they engage with the body before the shocks are fully compressed.
This will cause those rare extreme jolts to bottom out on the bump stop
instead of the shock reducing the stress on the shock conversion bracket and
the bolting plate on the body.  You also need to make certain that the
conversion bracket is securely bolted to the body where the old shocks were
bolted (use locktite) so that there is no movement of the conversion bracket
on the bolts.

  I know this is a controversial topic that has been discussed here several
times in the past.  I have also had friends (Al Salvatore are you out there)
who have had bad experiences with the tube shock conversion.  I'll leave it to
them to provide a "fair and balanced" response.

  Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6



  <i don't understand why so many people want to
"upgrade" to the rear tube shock conversion kit. when
my shocks were tired, it was recommended to me to do
the conversion. it sounded like a good idea, and i
even think it was a little cheaper than getting new
lever-arm shocks. unfortunatley a lot of TR6 and TR250
owners are learning the hard way that it's a
downgrade. did you know that, under normal driving
conditions, your frame can crack at the shock mounts? >




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