John---The "measurement" for front bearing end float is confusing to
read. How does one measure for the ".004 or .006 clearance"? Of course
one can do this but it's not in the usual way, with a feeler gauge or
the like. It is figuring how far to back off the nut. Each "flat" of
this nut is equal to so many thousandths of an inch. If there's 32
threads per inch, each flat on the nut is equal to about .005.
When the bearings are new, or know to be in good shape, I tighten up the
nut to squeeze out all of the air space, to where the hub doesn't turn
by hand. Backing off one flat, or to where you can re-insert the cotter
pin should be enough to give running clearance, (The hub will turn, by
hand)
It may take some practice to get confident in this technique. But the
wheel will not shake, and brake pedal drop will be at a minimum, because
the wheel and rotor tilt is now limited by a snug bearing.
If you like, read one of the back issues of the 6-PACK Newsletter (Fall
2001)? where this is discussed in more detail. I think it's titled:
Brake Pedal Drop.
Dick
John C. wrote:
All Right - On to the next task today of reassembling my brakes.
I have installed my front hub. When I follow the Bentley procedure and
torque the castle nut down to 5 ft*lbs and then back off 1 flat, the nut
is easily finger loose. I don't have a good way of measuring end play,
but it is not much. When I removed the hub to have the rotor turned, the
castle nut was not finger loose, but tight and it required a socket to
loosen it, but not much torque at all. I am inclined to give it another
flat of twist and call it done.
Opinions?
John Cyg.
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