On Fri, 14 Feb 2003 SamuelsMA@aol.com wrote:
> Listers:
>
> I looked under my 6 tonight to choose tie-down points for trailering the car.
> I have the typical woven tie-down straps to work with. At the front, there
> are loops in the frame which seem designed as towing points. At the back, I
> don't see any similar features. What would be the best place to use in the
> back of the car? I would like to avoid running the straps through the wheels
> (the way I trailer my Porsche) because I have wire wheels on the 6.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Michael Samuels
Hi,
The front loops _should_ work okay, but make sure that they haven't been
bent/straightened before. For some strange reason, those loops seem to
fail from metal fatigue.
On the rear, there are two distinct types. Some cars have towing tabs
welded to the frame. These are "normal" towing tabs (e.g. 1/8" steel plate
with an elongated hole on them). All the reat os the cars that I've looked
at have no towing provision at all.
Okay - that's what the frame has provisions for.
When I tow my race car on the trailer, I opt for the following (because
my front two loops failed and I have no tow tabs in the rear):
I loop a tow strap around the front lower a-arm pivot. I then use the
normal strap to a cleat. On the rear I loop a tow strap around the rear
upper crossmemeber (the one that the diff mounts to) and then I cross the
strap diagonally to a cleat on the other side.
The crossed straps wind up being important for my situation, if I go
straight back front/rear, the car wiggles around on the trailer and I have
to resort to heroics to get the car off the trailer when I get to my
destination.
I've towed thousands of miles with this setup.
If you are not comfortable with looping around the frame, I would say that
the "wheel basket" type of arrangement might be good as long as the car
isn't too low - the baskets need a bit or room fore/aft to angle over to
whatever cleat you are using.
I hope this helps.
rml
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