And I thought I was the only one to have this happen. Thanks, Peter for
telling us your story.
I, too, can attest to filling up my oil sump with gasoline with my wonderful
SU HS6 conversion! I jacked up the rear of my car to install new shocks and
repair my emergency brake. Upon completion of the work and after lowering
the rear, I started the car, only to find this puddle of diluted oil
creeping out from beneath, ruining a virgin garage floor. I immediately shut
it down, and discovered a rather full oil pan.
Since I had detected a little seepage from the float bowl of the rear SU, I
immediately knew what the problem was. A badly adjusted float and/or faulty
needle valve had allowed the excess gasoline pressure head from the elevated
gas tank to overfill the float and leak gasoline through my intake manifold
into the oil sump. It was corrected and I drained gasoline-diluted oil,
changed the filter and refilled, and everything is fine (except for my
garage floor).
Seems like a safety issue, and I've wondered about installing a check valve.
I just don't know how much pressure drop it would produce. Maybe an electric
fuel pump with a regulator is a solution.
BTW, to those who want to use longer bifurcated choke cables for their SU
installations, use the ones for the PI models. Also, I'm fabricating a heat
shield, ala,
page 119 of Roger Williams' TR6 restoration book
Jerry Shaw
'75 '74 6s
'66 Spit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Macholdt" <vze2846b@verizon.net>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2001 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: HS6 Carb Conversion
> Geoff,
>
> Your needle valve is shot or the float is set incorrectly. What is
> happening is that the level of fuel in your tank is higher than the carbs
> and the fuel is trying to reach equilibrium. Since the needle valve in
the
> rear carb is not closing, the fuel just continues to flow. It will stop
> when the fuel level in the tank gets lower than the carb.
>
> The fuel pump does not have a check valve and will not stop the flow of
> fuel.
>
> The fix is to replace the needle valve and set the float. It's not too
> tough, but you should buy a kit for both carbs and do them together.
>
> Finally, before you start the car, think about where all that fuel has
been
> going! Check your oil level. If you have way more oil than normal or it
> smells like gas, do not start the car. Drain the oil and replace.
>
> I've been here. I now check the oil every time I start the car. Not so
> much to see if I'm low, but to see if I'm high.
>
>
> Peter Macholdt
> 609-466-2127 Phone
>
>
> > From: Gameparker@cs.com
> > Reply-To: Gameparker@cs.com
> > Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 11:50:29 EST
> > To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> > Subject: HS6 Carb Conversion
> >
> > List,
> > thanks for your respective replies. I was indeed using a lightweight
oil in
> > the dampeners- changing to engine oil as some recommended along with
sorting
> > the linkage, did solve some of the problems I was having. Still have
> > extremely hard starting when warm, however, but I think I've found the
cause.
> > After a run today, I removed the pistons to change to the richer BAX
needles
> > that were supplied with the carbs on purchase (incidentally, engine runs
MUCH
> > better with the BAX needles no 2500-4000 rpm hestiation now). When
lifting
> > the piston/needle assembly out, petrol started to gush and spurt out of
the
> > jet and flooded the carb body at an alarming rate. Duplicated this
situation
> > many times. This is probably what is causing my hard starting when
warm. I
> > immediately disassembled the front carb and it was fine, no flooding.
Why do
> > you think that this is happening to the rear carb only? If the fuel
system
> > pressure was too high, it would be happening to both carbs
(incidentally, I
> > am running the stock mechanical fuel pump). List, your collective
wisdom
> > please, as I've sworn not to touch the carbs without hearing from you
first!
> > Cheers and Regards
> > Geoff
> > P.S.: Sounds obvious, but pump not running when this happens!
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