A few weeks ago some listers were wondering how to remove a "broken
clutch fork pin" that had lodged in the shaft. Suggestions were made
that included cutting the shaft in half, as the broken bolt piece
wouldn't fall out on its own. Thinking that cutting the shaft was a
little drastic, I suggested that first one should try to punch the
broken part out from the back side forward, thus saving the shaft. As
part of replacing some of my Original clutch shaft parts including a
never-before-broken fork pin, fork and shaft, I replaced all three,
along with a new clutch and T/O bearing. This was last May. Last
weekend it was obvious that the T/O bearing was again 'shot' and needed
to come out. It was at this time I noticed that the new fork DID NOT
have a back hole in which to tap out the, yes, broken pin! Dang. Now I,
too, had to pull out the shaft (about 2 1/2") and saw it in half to
remove the fork to replace the pin. Incidently, the clutch operated OK
with the pin broke in half. I checked the pin just because it was right
in front of me. I was even surprised that it was broken!
The reason for all of this verbage is to tell you that before
re-installing this fork, I drilled thru the fork pin bore with a 5/16"
drill. IF another pin breaks, I'll now be able to hopefully knock the
loose piece out the threaded side of the fork pin hole.
If you find yourself with such a fork with a 'blind' hole for the pin,
consider drilling thru it. (Note-there's a 7 deg. angle here)
I also re-installed my Original 28 year old fork pin, and backed it up
with a cross-drilled 2 1/2" X 1/4" socket head cap screw. I know many of
you have also added a second bolt as 'pin' insurance.
In another blurb, I'll go into the replacing the selector shaft O-rings
in the top cover, that is now converted from plugs to 'set screws'.
Thanks again to Jim Davis and friend, Randall, for some concise steps to
follow here.
Dick Taylor
'73
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