Hi Kendall and Dick,
I had lots of fun removing head from my PI the first time. I was advised by
a local mechanic to feed some soft nylon rope into cyl 2 and 4 and then
crank the motor over. It worked a treat with no damage to the valves,
pistons or head.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Bernard
'71 PI (with a Manual Non OD gearbox but I can get out of the drive now!)
'73 TR6 (all going well...)
At 00:49 22/07/00 -0700, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
>Kendall---You didn't say what prompted you to take the head back off
>after only 6,000 miles, so I'll consider the reason irrelevant. I'll
>pass along ways I've used, in order of severity..
>I'll assume that you also backed out all 12 or 14 studs. (I don't
>recall.) This will make the head less difficult to move "sideways," as
>persuaded by a big, lead hammer, or equivalent.
>
>Crank the engine over a few times with the starter. Sometimes the
>compression can be enough to dislodge one end or the other.
>
>Try inserting a chisel, or sharp screwdriver into an area that won't
>affect the sealing of a new head gasket (look at it's replacement) and
>work this with a hammer. This can be done without harming parts, when
>careful.
>
>
>If all this fails, you can do this at some risk--Take out #1 and #6
>spark plugs. Turn the engine over to where these two pistons are coming
>up, as indicated by the timing cover pointer. Jack up a rear wheel till
>it clears the floor by a couple of inches, and put the transmission in
>first gear. Feed some nylon-type rope thru each spark plug hole,
>measuring a pre-cut length beforehand. See where this is going? Now
>turn the rear wheel forward until you feel the resistance of the pistons
>squeezing the rope against the bottom of the head. If you can't feel it,
>you need to feed in more rope. Back the engine up to where you started.
>(It's better to have some rope hanging out of each plug hole, to make
>retrieving easy.) When resistance is felt, rock the wheel back and
>forth, using as much force as you're comfortable with. I've broken
>loose a very stubborn (rusted) head this way. No bent con-rods or
>valves, but it could have! This could be a last ditch effort, before
>having to-
>
>-Remove the rocker arm shaft. Put the end studs back in, and try lifting
>the head off with an engine hoist. (It will no doubt ruin these studs,
>but could be replaced.
>
>-Of course you could pull the engine, strip off the crank and pull the
>pistons out the bottom. Then knock the head loose with alternating blows
>with a 2 X 2 and the big hammer, from the "bottom up." It also takes
>several days to do this.
>
>Others may have a simpler, or better way to remove a stubborn head.
>Gang??
>
>Dick Taylor
>
>
>
Regards
Bernard Robbins
NEC New Zealand Ltd
Network Solutions
P.O. Box 1936
Wellington
Ph (04) 381 6274
fax (04) 381 6284
email brobbins@wlg.nec.co.nz
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