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References: [ +from:ralemen@cableone.net: 252 ]

Total 252 documents matching your query.

141. Re: Seat reclining mechanism (score: 1)
Author: Alan Lemen <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 22:24:00 -0600
Ok, seat out and stripped to the frame. There's a crack in the side piece all the way through above the adjusting mechanism. Runs right through the last rivet hole. Sounds very similar to what a few
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00065.html (7,754 bytes)

142. RE: dead Pertonix? (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:44:02 -0700
Roger, it should be simply red to +ve side of coil and black to -ve from what I Alan Last night in an effort to cure my 1980 Spitfire's running out of steam at 3500 rpm, I changed the wires, rotor, d
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00080.html (7,349 bytes)

143. RE: Where did everyone go ? (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:48:57 -0700
Me too. I can't or should I say, won't take the car out until my road is cleaned up a bit from the resurfacing. Got my seat frame welded and back in last night. Opportune time for me to do maintenanc
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00089.html (8,690 bytes)

144. RE: Where did everyone go ? (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 10:05:41 -0700
Me too. I can't or should I say, won't take the car out until my road is cleaned up a bit from the resurfacing. Got my seat frame welded and back in last night. Opportune time for me to do maintenanc
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00090.html (8,692 bytes)

145. LED and valve cleaner (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 12:37:22 -0700
Rick, I went 510 ohm (not k) 1/4 W to be on the safe side. It's a 6000 mcd high intensity white LED. Normal green ones are nowhere near bright enough. Though I believe you can get some high intensity
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00092.html (8,636 bytes)

146. RE: temp gauge pegged high (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 11:31:29 -0700
Doug, the gauge on the later spitfires is electrical and a the lower the resistance, the higher the gauge reads. Sounds like you have this type if it shoots to high when you turn on the ignition and
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00125.html (8,543 bytes)

147. RE: [Fwd: Mystery Missfire] (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 08:44:58 -0700
I know from the other posts that you are looking at the leads, but don't forget that it could be the plug. You could try swapping cylinders to see. I did have a bad one in the set that came on the ca
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00140.html (7,333 bytes)

148. RE: It was all going so well... (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 07:22:38 -0700
James have you checked the timing in this new condition. Just in case something in the distributer area has come loose and the timing has gone out. Alan /// spitfires@autox.team.net mailing list ///
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00161.html (6,975 bytes)

149. RE: guages not working! (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 12:09:13 -0700
And the wiring! Could even be the ground from the gauges as well, on the opposite side from the stabiliser. Anything is possible given Lucas...... In my case I had gauges both reading low and suspec
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00201.html (6,978 bytes)

150. RE: Rub down for respray time? (long) (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:39:13 -0700
James a couple of years ago I had done exactly what you are thinking of doing ( but I let the guy that did the painting do the prep as well, as power sanding down all the old paint etc. is messy.) I
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00256.html (8,260 bytes)

151. ABFM -Portland (score: 1)
Author: Alan Lemen <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 21:35:55 -0600
Looks like I am taking the Spitfire now (was planning to co-drive and XK140 but that's now being trailered as the owner - a very nice chap in the local club does not think his back will hold out). So
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00289.html (6,871 bytes)

152. RE: ABFM -Portland (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:00:23 -0700
Ken, we are trying to get a few cars to come in from Boise, ID on 84. It's a straight run (apart from detours). Sounds like you would be coming down I5. We plan to leave Thursday evening after work a
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00302.html (7,174 bytes)

153. RE: Spark plug gap with sports coil (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:24:01 -0700
I have a Crane PS20 and their phone support guys said as wide as it can go Probably up to 45 thou. I set at 42 and it was OK. I would try more but would have to have some really good plug wires. Curr
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00303.html (9,124 bytes)

154. RE: tappets (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 09:07:35 -0700
I'll second that, although according to my friend, his MGB (he is looking at replacing it with a TR6 now) is supposed to be adjusted when hot. Alan --Original Message-- From: "spitfires-owner@autox.t
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00328.html (8,837 bytes)

155. RE: 1/16" Allen Keys (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 12:08:52 -0700
I have a set in the garage and also somehow over the years got another 1/16" one, that I carry in the car at all times with the usual screwdrivers and spanners, just in case I need behind the dash. -
/html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00363.html (7,872 bytes)

156. RE: Back on the road again... (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 10:21:14 -0700
The connection on my car at the o/d had come off. PO said it needed a new cable. Just had to tighten on the elbow joint. Found this out when the car was over the pit getting the front end aligned and
/html/spitfires/2002-07/msg00006.html (8,555 bytes)

157. Re: should the speedo & tach be grounded? (score: 1)
Author: Alan Lemen <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 10:22:41 -0600
OK genius, you got it spot on. I know as I just replaced the voltage stabilizer and had to rehook that one last wire. Awkward guy as it keeps trying to disappear and it hard to hold as you put the nu
/html/spitfires/2002-06/msg00018.html (7,809 bytes)

158. RE: prop/drive shaft (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 06:37:04 -0700
Iain, the latter part of the write up of the actual replacement of the joint is the same. In fact the joints themselves are the same. It is a bit easier for the propshaft as you mark the two flanges
/html/spitfires/2002-06/msg00204.html (8,438 bytes)

159. RE: prop/drive shaft (score: 1)
Author: <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 08:11:26 -0700
Here's my thoughts: Original or rebalanced shafts are balanced off the car. Flanges are symmetrical. If the shaft is balanced it should not matter on which bolt holes align given the two previous sta
/html/spitfires/2002-06/msg00207.html (8,689 bytes)

160. Re: Ignition resistor? (score: 1)
Author: Alan Lemen <ralemen@cableone.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 20:32:59 -0600
My car when I got her had an Allison and now a Pertronix and the drive resistor is only part of the original Lucas and not needed for anything else. However if it is the ballast resistor ( later cars
/html/spitfires/2002-06/msg00249.html (7,301 bytes)


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