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21. Re: The Panel Doctor (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 17:06:52 -0400; Thanks to everyone trying to help me find the "Panel Doctor" and their web site. I did find a good bit of it on archive.org. Thanks again!! John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net Va. Bea; /html/spitfires/2005-05/msg00014.html (6,956 bytes)
22. Re: The latest brouhaha about VTR... (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 20:49:04 -0400; Excellent points!!! I've gotten to the point where showing the cars is a real downer. I do 98% of my own work and can take pride in my cars. Yes, when I show one, it's nice to be recognized for the e; /html/spitfires/2005-05/msg00119.html (8,069 bytes)
23. Re: Starter Troubles (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 20:40:28 -0400; Dan, Sound like the problems I used to have with my 67 Spit and occassionally with my Morgan. The problem is usually dirt in the spiral on the shaft so the bendix can't spit out to engage the flywhee; /html/spitfires/2005-04/msg00044.html (9,077 bytes)
24. Re: Paint Stripping questions (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 17:42:03 -0500; Paul, If the stripper says to use mineral spirits, I think I'd use that. However, after that, I think I'd was with soap and water. Or I'd at least use soap and water. Also do a relatively small area,; /html/spitfires/2005-03/msg00105.html (9,164 bytes)
25. Re: POR-15 (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005 12:45:37 -0500; Doug, I've been using POR-15 for many years. So far I've had no problems with it. There are some problem with it, like storage and UV rays. For more info check you my FAQ: http://www.team.net/www/mor; /html/spitfires/2005-02/msg00042.html (7,546 bytes)
26. Re: Seats for the Spitfire.... (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:10:32 -0500; Brian, Did you happen to get a manufacturer or a part #? I just checked their web site and didn't see anything near the price you were talking about. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.n; /html/spitfires/2005-02/msg00059.html (7,634 bytes)
27. Re: Oil Filter ramblings- (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 10:30:30 -0500; Nolan, Ok, so how do you do that? John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1) Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109) 75; /html/spitfires/2005-01/msg00084.html (7,666 bytes)
28. Re: Cooling System Mystery - please help (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 17:16:47 -0500; Mike, I'll bet the problem was you radiator was clogged. Either from age, or because of the crud you pulled out of the heater control valve. If that stuff was there, what are the chances that it is e; /html/spitfires/2004-12/msg00088.html (8,837 bytes)
29. Re: Starter doesn't always... (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 13:01:03 -0400; Tom, That's an easy one!!! I'll give you better then 90% odds that the contacts in your starter solenoid are burned and not making connection. The other possibility is that the starter has a bad spot; /html/spitfires/2004-09/msg00024.html (8,641 bytes)
30. Re: Oil Pressure gauge leak (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 17:07:09 -0400; gauge. It looks great, but I have a persistent oil leak at the gauge. I assume that it is the compression fitting. I have tried tightening the connection, I even tried using teflon pipe seal on it. Y; /html/spitfires/2004-08/msg00072.html (7,704 bytes)
31. Re: help! (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 11:25:20 -0400; Larry, These feelings are not uncommon. Everyone has disappointing days. You need to find another Spit owner in your area so when he drives over to see you, you get a shot in the arm to help with the; /html/spitfires/2004-07/msg00022.html (8,736 bytes)
32. Re: help! (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2004 11:35:21 -0400; As Liv points out, it takes time. I keep logs of my labor, parts, supplies, and new tools purchased for the various cars I've restored. My Morgan took me 2000 hrs over a 4 years period, and cost me a; /html/spitfires/2004-07/msg00023.html (9,136 bytes)
33. Re: Alternator Testing (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 12:27:08 -0400; Alan, Yes, you will probably fry the Fluke multimeter. A quick test to check an alternator or generator is: 1. Set the multimeter to read about 15 V. What ever scale that is. 2. With the enging NOT r; /html/spitfires/2004-07/msg00033.html (9,541 bytes)
34. Re: Getting the ball back in the wiper motor? (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 15:15:31 -0400; I think it's called patience and luck. Been there, done that! I don't know of any trick other than blind luck. Sorry. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra; /html/spitfires/2004-07/msg00083.html (7,593 bytes)
35. Re: Re: What's it worth? *Kinda long...* (score: 1): Author: <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 7:14:07 -0400; David, It sounds like you need a mentor and an attitude adjustment. When I redtored my Morgan it took me 4 yrs and 1740 hours. I started restoring my Bricklin in 1995 and am still working on it, alm; /html/spitfires/2004-06/msg00031.html (7,948 bytes)
36. Re: frame (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 09:59:27 -0400; frame out Larry, I ususally send my frames out to be sandblasted. Trying to do it yourself is doable if you have a pressure blaster, but very time consuming. When I did my Bricklin frame it cost me a; /html/spitfires/2004-06/msg00101.html (9,217 bytes)
37. Re: Air-con question - SORRY NON-LBC!! (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Sat, 08 May 2004 12:51:20 -0400; Larry, Sounds like either the crimp on the wire has loosened, the wire had broken at one side of the connector, or the connector has loosened up. So basically you need to replace the connector. Check; /html/spitfires/2004-05/msg00046.html (8,560 bytes)
38. Re: Wood Dash Veneer (score: 1): Author: <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 7:34:21 -0400; John, This is an easy project - so my suggestion would be to look in the mirror. Nice place to get your hands dirty. John; /html/spitfires/2004-05/msg00107.html (7,142 bytes)
39. Re: Mis-fire at wide open throttle (score: 1): Author: <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 11:02:09 -0400; Kevin, Sounds like you're running out of fuel and need different needles. John; /html/spitfires/2004-05/msg00115.html (6,826 bytes)
40. Re: Re: Distributor (score: 1): Author: <jblair1948@COX.NET>; Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 12:35:11 -0400; That's one of the big advantages of the opto replacements. They aren't as suceptable to changes due to a loose dist. shaft. John; /html/spitfires/2004-05/msg00155.html (7,518 bytes)

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