Mail Archive Search: <+from:jlumia@ball.com>

Results:

References: [ +from:jlumia@ball.com: 150 ]

Total 150 documents matching your query.

81. really tight vertical links (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:16:50 -0700; Joe, if you remove the spring compressor the vertical link will be tight due to loading of the link and ball joint. Try jacking up from under the spring pan using the flat part of a 2x4, far enough t; /html/6pack/2003-03/msg00547.html (8,646 bytes)
82. RE: Re: Rope Trick (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:41:10 -0700; Tim, some others on the list mentioned that the rocker shaft should have already been removed, so the valve timing should not be an issue. Of course, they are right, I dont know what I was thinking,; /html/6pack/2003-03/msg00550.html (9,493 bytes)
83. Re: oil/ignition warning lights (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:28:04 -0700; Michael, I would suggest checking Dan Masters webpage for the wiring on your 1970 model (dont know if its applicable for your PI model, but probably usable). John 1976 TR6 http://www.britishv8.org/te; /html/6pack/2003-03/msg00621.html (7,232 bytes)
84. headlights (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:03:27 -0700; I am close to putting my headlights back on the car. When I took them off the car 6 mos ago, they were held on with three sheet metal screws directly into the fender. Moss shows a "spire nut", which; /html/6pack/2003-03/msg00670.html (6,664 bytes)
85. Re: Front Brake Woes (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 08:24:18 -0700; Stuart, I would suggest getting a short piece of brake line with the correct fitting from a local supplier and connect one side directly to the MC (should be your rearmost opening) and the other poki; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00209.html (7,735 bytes)
86. Re: Ignition shear bolts (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 08:25:32 -0700; John, unless you are a contortionist, you should be able to remove the shear bolts largely from the underneath as I recall. Removing the speedo gives you access to some of the clamp hardware and such; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00280.html (7,953 bytes)
87. Re: Piston Rings and Bearings (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 08:32:16 -0700; Wayne, I just installed them on my car, but havent fired it up yet. Deves has a website and a knowledgeable customer service lady. You should call them up to verify which ring gap numbers to use and; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00282.html (7,018 bytes)
88. RE: She no run (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 09:51:09 -0700; Mark, if you have a spark on all six wires (inductive timing light works great here), then I would check that fuel is getting to the carbs and that the floats arent stuck. This means making sure ther; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00344.html (7,175 bytes)
89. Re: TR6 leak at clutch slave cylinder? (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 09:34:13 -0700; Richard and Bud My two cents but I just had my clutch MC sent to Apple Hydraulics for a resleeving job (~$40). According to them, the aluminum MC, new or otherwise, is usually responsible for the dar; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00529.html (8,697 bytes)
90. Re: Cam and Crank (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0700; Brad, in addition to the links you got in some of your replies, I will say that the holes on the camshaft sprocket of my 6 allow a bit of slop that will vary the timing by at least about 2 degrees (+; /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00706.html (8,010 bytes)
91. Re: Universal joints (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:19:29 -0700; Al, I must say that I am a little wary of using them after my experience last year. I got a set of u-joints and the problem I had was that the hole for the grease fittings is in the same plane as the; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00036.html (7,714 bytes)
92. Engine rebuilding problem (long) (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 12:53:11 -0700; I need help on a potentially serious problem regarding main bearing clearances with my TR6 engine rebuild. Prior to bringing the block to a rebuilder, I made a platigage measurement with my old beari; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00082.html (9,648 bytes)
93. RE: Engine rebuilding problem (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 11:01:52 -0700; Thanks to all for responding to my engine problem, I appreciate all your comments. I think the conundrum for me is that while the rebuilder did polish the crank, I measured journal diameters and they; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00150.html (6,773 bytes)
94. Re: electronic ign (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 08:24:28 -0700; Gene, if you dont have a spare set of points to reinstall, you can probably check the coil by removing the low voltage wire that goes from the coil to your electronic ignition unit at the coil (usual; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00185.html (7,789 bytes)
95. camshaft question, 1st car (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:04:25 -0700; OK so I got a reground crankshaft, put it in and notice that the cam lobes arent really centered in the lifter holes. In fact, a couple of them have the edge of the lobe practically in the center of; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00211.html (7,921 bytes)
96. Re: Suspension and Steering Questions (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 08:43:05 -0700; Dwayne, I have rebuilt my front suspension and although I am not an expert in this area I find your ride height difference unexpected. Did you put in new springs? Are you sure everything went back to; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00579.html (9,057 bytes)
97. RE: Suspension and Steering Questions - rebuilds (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:22:09 -0700; Peter, the Bentley manual is a very good reference. If you have any mechanical skills, and a set of wrenches and sockets up to about 1", you should be able to do it, John Speaking of front end re-bui; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00602.html (7,406 bytes)
98. RE: Suspension and Steering Questions - rebuilds (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:44:49 -0700; Peter, I inadvertently sent this message before I was finished. You also need a way to compress the front spring. Moss and others sell a tool to do this, but it is possible to do it the Bentley way,; /html/6pack/2003-01/msg00603.html (8,187 bytes)
99. diverter valve (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 09:52:46 -0700; Does anyone have a good source for a "reasonably" (LOL) priced diverter valve (other than a junkyard)? John Lumia - 1976 TR6; /html/6pack/2002-12/msg00610.html (6,202 bytes)
100. distributor shaft runout (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 12:54:36 -0700; Listers, still in engine rebuild land. My distributor shaft has about .0025" of runout. Is that alot, or should I think about replacing the distributor drive shaft bushings? I dont see a spec in any; /html/6pack/2002-12/msg00686.html (7,184 bytes)

Current List: 81 - 100
Page: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8]