Hey John,
No prob'. Hopefully the advice is worth at least what you paid
for it! =8^D Here's to fun in turn one at the Glen. Heh!
Holy Dr. Zuise Batman! My main problem with the Street TDs so far
has been waring them out on the inside sidewall against the rear
springs. Ran with 1.25" clearance and 30 Psi last weekend (7/30)
(the rear's showed 5 degrees F warmer in the middel of the tread)
and still rubbed more than a little. I plan to open that up to
1.4375" from the sidewall to the spring for the next event. If it
STILL rubs, I'll have to get the bolt on (mostly) MOPAR kit to move
the springs inboard 0.75" and consider running 15"x8" wheels to
further reduce squerm and flatten out the contact patch at about
32 Psi.
At 10:50 AM 8/7/06 -0400, you wrote:
>Man - thanks a bunch - the two problems I have run into is tire wear and
>stability under braking.
>The car is practically diabolical under hard down hill braking, turn 1 at
>the Glen is way not fun.
>
>I have learned a bunch as a result of this post. Some things I did not
>mention that have turned out to be
>important to this conversation is that the car was set up (and worked
>well) for BFG Comp T/A radials.
>The upper control mount points are lowered 2 inches, in this location I
>pick up neg. chamber quickly under
>heavy loading in corners. That probably explains the inside tire wear.
>
>I plan to move the mount points up to the 1 inch lower point as a start.
>Your settings sound like a great
>place to start.
>
>How does one measure caster? I am thinking I can measure the angle formed
>by the ball joint studs on the back
>side of the spindle. Ay suggestions?
>
>
>
>
>John DeSantis
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Hi John,
>
>I'm just learning about Street TDs on my Dart
>(http://users.erols.com/dmapes/RKCP009.JPG),
>but here's my $0.02.
>
>As Myles said bias plys need less camber than than
>radials, although -1/2 to -1 seams a little upright
>to me. What toe and caster settings are you running,
>and does the car have lowered upper control arms?
>Obviously the better your negitive camber "gain" with
>body roll the less negitive camber you'll need to
>run.
>
>What's less obvious is that the more positive
>caster you can adjust into the front suspension, the
>more work you can get out of the outside edge of the
>inside tire in any given corner (which helps even out
>the ware a bit).
>
>While some toe-out can halp turn-in, its hell on tire
>ware, so go with 0" to an 0.125" toe-in. This will
>take some of the pressure off of the inside edges
>when your running in a straight line and help stabilize
>the car under braking.
>
>Overall I'd be inclined to go with -1.25 Camber, as
>much positive caster as you can get, and 0" toe.
>
>
>At 01:48 PM 8/2/06 -0400, you wrote:
>> I am running Hoosier Bias ply's (Street TD's) on my Mustang and
>>trying to perfect the camber adjustment.
>>
>>Ideally - should I expect to be able to set the camber to get even wear
>>across the face of the tire? I chew up the inside
>>edge with the camber set at 1/2 to 1 deg neg. camber.
>>
>>
>>John DeSantis
>>Inficon
>>Phone 315-434-1196
>>Fax 315-434-9908
>>
All the Best! Dave ;^)
'66 Formula S Barracuda, CP "Light"(GoldFish), Gold - Go figgure
'66 Dodge Dart, CP "Light"/Vintage (Zebra), Heh! Guess!
'66 Formula S Barracuda, Vintage Resurection Project, Gold
'66 C code Mustang Coup, CP (Ol'Beastly), Red - NEDiv/WDCR Championship car
'97 Cherokee, Green, Nothing Special Until it Snows
'05 Subaru Impreza RS Wagon, HS, Silver - 2005 Subi Challenge DSP Winner
Lame Horse Racing, College Park, MD. http://users.erols.com/dmapes/
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