In a message dated 1/28/00 8:58:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jfcowan@pacbell.net writes:
<< Rod,
I plan to take driving courses and expect I'll do the first in a sprint
kart. The books all say that is the place to start if you want to get a
feel for racing ASAP. C Canepa suggested the three day SCCA achool. And
how much was the TRC course at Russell? Either of these or Skip Barber
at LS are possibilities for later (especially considering your suggestion
about learning at the track you would like to run in future), although I
will have to save up for that.
I've owned Triumphs and don't know MGs very well, but I've grown to
respect the MGB, more for its possibilities with beefed up engine and
suspension than as it was sold new.
Thanks for the suggestions.
John
At 09:28 PM 1/25/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>John,
>
>I waited a little to let the smoke clear before I responded to you posting.
>I started vintage racing about three years ago with an MGB because MGs are
>what I know about. I have owned MGs for over 30 years and think I know
them
>extensively, especially the MGB. When I started vintage racing, I
restored a
>'64 MGB roadster with a factory hardtop as a LeMans/Sebring factory car. I
>got the car for free and with alot of trading etc., I know I have over
$12k
>involved.
>
>Last Summer I took the TRC racing course at Russell Racing School at Sears
>Point. If I were to begin vintage racing today after only having taken the
>course, my choices for a racecare would be: Entry level: Formula Vee at
>about 4k to 6k or better yet a Formula Ford for about 10k plus. You can't
>drive them on the street but once you trick out your production racer you
>won't want to drive that on the street either. My >>
John,
The MGB is a low buck alternative if you have access to a cheep car and cheep
parts. If you are paying a wrench, forget it. Race cars are like street
rods: Much cheeper to buy someone else's finished car than to build your own.
Part of the problem is ( with any car, but also true of a racecar) any new
part you pay retail for becomes a used part once you put it on the car. And
that included no pay for the labor to install the part.
I would recomend that you really investigate the vintage race clubs that run
on the tracks that are close to your home and that you want to run on, will
allow you to run the kind of car that you envision, and then find out what
they will let you run and then find out what cars are available through that
group and in and around your area
I would bet you would get a much more practical racecar from someone in the
club you join who wanted to move to the next level than you might build,
unless you build really wonderfull cars very inexpensively. The other piece
is that if you buy a car from someone in your group, you have the power of
everyone else in the group who knows that the car is a looser or a winner and
I would bet they will tell you.
Finally, I wouldn't buy a street rod or a racecar from anyone who couldn't
give me an oral history to back at least 10 years and preferably 20 years,
who owned it etc...
And I would hope any racecar you buy would have a log book that would show
some history and be accepted in the groups(race club(s)) that you plan to
race with.
I hope this helps.
Rod Schweiger
'64 MGB Sebring Coupe
putting in the 4.3 R/E to be ready for Lagune in 2 weeks
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