I have had GREAT results with the ATE blue in a Porsche 356 vintage race car.
Big tracks and small tracks, significantly better than Castrol LMA. I began
to notice the performance at the hard braking areas (i.e. going to turn 5 at
Road America). I run 10-12 race weekends per season on about 8 different
tracks. Flush thru (turkey baster drain the reservoir and 10-15 pumps per
bleeder nipple) after each weekend. May have to bleed at Blackahawk or
Grattan, (3-5 pumps per bleeder) during the weekend. No problems with any
seals.
BTW regarding brakes: I have also had very good results with the Russell one
man bleeders (ball valve in bleeder) about $9.95 at Jeg's. If you use them
carry a spare set.
Rick Gurolnick
1960 Porsche 356 roadster vintage racecar
In a message dated 12/24/99 12:18:59 PM, carlmcle@saturnnet.com writes:
<< Listers,
It was my desire to use ATE Blue Racing brake fluid in my Series 1 Alpine,
having used it in the Porsches over the years without problems. I have been
told however, that the Girling seals in our brakes are natural rubber and
not neoprene, thus in time they will lose their elasticity as the (non
mineral based) fluid slowly dissolves the rubber.
The ATE fluid container states it is compatible with DOT3 and DOT4 brake
fluid, as well as other synthetics.
Rick at SS has told me that the caliper seals should not have a problem but
he is unsure about the wheel cylinder seals.
Not desiring to reinvent the wheel, and especially not wanting to be the
first person to the scene of the crash, does anyone have experience with
this; what is the recommendation for brake fluid; and what are YOU USING?
Thanks to all, and a Safe, Merry Christmas!!
Carl (#47, CarLynne Racing) >>
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