At 10:25 AM 12/10/96 PST, Simon Favre wrote:
>>>..I was using Valvoline Racing 20W/50, but switched to Mobil1 15W/50.
>
>>What makes you choose one over another ? The thickest synthetic I've
>>found is from Sellina (Fiat) who do a 20W/60 for racing that should hold
>>prssure better. Anyone know about Motul ? I've been warned off thick
>>mono-grades by others with vintage cars.
>
>My car came with Dinosaur juice in it, and 20W/50 was recommended to
>me. After reading some oil data, I settled on the Valvoline because it
>had more ZDP (Zinc) in it. This compound is supposed to provide a
>little extra protection in case of metal-to-metal contact. The 20W/50
>made sense with a HUGE sump (7 quarts) on a TINY motor. I'm thinking of
>adding an oil-water intercooler to warm the oil up quicker. Another
>racer I know recommended a Ford part from the Thunderbird SC. It's
>about $200, tho. The cheaper Marine grade units are just too big for my
>installation.
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you might want to take a look at the Aeroquip unit - about 16" x 4"
very effective -
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>
>The reason I switched away from petro to synthetic was film strength.
>Note the caution about oil pump drive gears? I was chewing up drive
>gears at a rate of one per race! I did 3 things to fix it, one of which
>was going to Mobil1 for film strength. It was a definite oil related
>failure. I even rigged an external oil line with a metering orifice to
>spray the drive gear, to no avail. I did re-align the pump internals to
>reduce friction, but the bottom line is that the drive gear is doing
>twice the amount of work as stock. The gear on the cam was fine, as it
>was hardened along with the cam. The poor driven gear was being eaten
>alive. It's a steel gear too, not plastic or brass. It's ok now.
>
>Thanks for the pointer to Phoenix. There's another outfit in England I
>should call. I can't remember the name, but I have one of their ads.
>
>
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Jack Rubin
jrubin@ryr.com
Carpe Diem!
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