Stephen;
I have removed the diff from a 2500M. On the M chassis and body there is a
depressed panel behind the seats in the rear deck floor. I cut this out and was
able to remove the diff and the cage that holds it out the top. Not easy but
with much twisting and turning it will come out. After replaceing it I made a
screw in panel from alum. that fills in the hole. Seal it good around the edges
with seam sealer and screw down tight. Hope I don't have to do it again.
Dean Tetterton
Son's 74 2500M
Hill, Stephen M EDUC:EX wrote:
> Last night I was taking apart a TR6 rear end. Externally the rear end was
> perfectly clean, internally the ring and pinion and the output shaft bearing
> were rusted badly. Some DPO had obviously pressure washed it, water leaked
> past the worn seals, and it was put on a shelf to rot. Too bad: it was a
> rare 3.45:1 crown and pinion gearset, used on the UK TR5 and 6's, and of
> course TVR's.
>
> To the point of my writing. I had never taken a TR6 rear end apart before,
> so decided this was a good one to learn on. I wanted to take the diff cage
> (containing the sun and planet gears) out of the case. The problem is there
> is an interference fit between the case and diff cage. This requires a diff
> spreader, shown in some of the manuals, which pulls the case apart enough to
> lift out the diff cage. Somebody on the list recently mentioned they spent 6
> months looking for one of these, before they gave up. I recall somebody
> saying he pried his out with a crow-bar. I tried the crow bar, but no luck.
> Stumped, but determined, I came up with a simple solution. Using a great
> honking c-clamp, I gently squeezed the case, which slighly pushed the case
> apart enough to lift the cage out, allowing me to get at the bits I needed.
>
> How does it work? Difficult to explain without a drawing, but imagine a
> basketball, and you want to give it the shape (slightly) of a football. The
> diff spreader would pull the sides into the shape required. Or, using a
> c-clamp, you would squeeze the middle together (slightly) and drive the ends
> into the shape required. From the perspective of the basketball, makes no
> diff! Sorry, couldn't resist!
>
> Some metalurigist might want to discuss the properties of cast steel under
> tension versus compression, but I am convinced that this is irrelevant given
> the small forces and minute clearances required for this job.
>
> Any thoughts on how tough it is to swap the TR6 diffs on TVR's? I recall
> somebody saying the body needs to come off, although I also recall sombody
> saying that if you cut a hatch in the back deck it can be done without
> moving the body. Appreciate any help you can provide on this.
>
> Stephen Hill
> 1972 TVR
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