TRF Summer Party ran 8/16 thru 8/18 and had a rally, autocross and otherevents
out in the Western PA alps. I also stocked up on parts and read all the cool TR
stuff going back 60 years. Folks camped out in the field which didn't look like
fun?with the constant rain. When I had my TR3 I was in my teens andearly 20's.
I didn't know about car clubs which would have made things much more
interesting.? ? ? ? ? ? ?Joe Mato
From: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net" <triumphs-request at
autox.team.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2018 3:14 PM
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 210
Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
??? triumphs at autox.team.net
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net
You can reach the person managing the list at
??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
Today's Topics:
? 1. Re: [EXTERNAL] - Re:? Proper English for a Proper Car
? ? ? (David Templeton)
? 2. Re: TR2/3 coil & condenser info. (Chris Simo)
? 3. Re: mechanics gloves (TERRY SMITH)
? 4. Re: TR2/3 coil & condenser info. (Geo Hahn)
? 5. Re: mechanics gloves (Patrick Baize)
? 6. Re: Tr3a ignition redux... (Randall)
? 7. Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on the
? ? ? shift lever on my TR4A. (Dave Connitt)
? 8. Re: Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on
? ? ? theshift lever on my TR4A. (Randall)
? 9. Re: mechanics gloves (Rye Livingston)
? 10. Re: mechanics gloves (Matt)
? 11. Re: Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on
? ? ? theshift lever on my TR4A. (EDWARD WOODS)
? 12. Re: mechanics gloves (Paul Tegler)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 23:03:44 +0000
From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
To: wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>, 'Andrew Uprichard'
??? <auprichard at uprichard.net>,? 'William Brewer'
??? <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>, 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:? Proper English for a Proper Car
Message-ID:
??? <SN6PR1501MB1997833A9331607B9E714224B63C0 at
SN6PR1501MB1997.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
???
Bill,
I think the same company made the brake fluif that was mentioned years ago ??
It is totally Lucas reliable.
David
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of wbeech
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 11:10 PM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>; 'William Brewer'
<billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car
I believe Dave Templeton just referred to ?Starting Fluif? in a post last
month.? So how many times does a new word have to be used before Webster will
recognize it as a real word?
Bill
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William
Brewer
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:08 PM
To: Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car
? ? I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark
thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the
mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that
afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside
as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler
temperatures.? Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word -
"Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using
the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd,
"recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or
compliant". A synonym could be "balk".
? ? Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is
"calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say
"thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up.
https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.dictionary.com_browse_callipygous&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=o7xCSt_dykMMGIM_1IFYxs9hu5R-Hs6tb02w_fq0Mn4&s=KEEo4VljU1L7G4zj63d8lVTmJ99Y7KCRQfVgCcu5W3o&e=>
? ? A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif".
I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still
stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list?? I think that
his name was Joe-something.
? ? Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity.
? ? Bill in Tehachapi
? ? Anglophile, Logophile
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 19:17:49 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info.
Message-ID:
??? <CANhzkeMuOi7j7O003mBTdRertrEiz-ZFvjKfz45i0PNhMrGmYA at mail.gmail.com>
That's what she said....
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 19:50:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: ptegler at verizon.net, glemon at neb.rr.com, Triumphs List
??? <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves
Two rules for <Triumph owners (obligatory Triumph content) in a public men's
room.? #1.? Beware of men in raincoats with poor aim.
#2.? Same as above.
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
> On August 18, 2018 at 4:06 PM Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>
> Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty
> hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first.
> ...glues and goos...easy to change'em
>
> ...use to just use them to go to the can.
>
> heavy work the mech gloves come out
>
>
> ptegler
>
>
> On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote:
> > I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred.?
> > I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and
> > cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them.
> >
> > I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of
> > cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after
> > the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working.
> >
> >
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler
> > at verizon.net
> >
>
> --
> Paul Tegler
> ptegler at verizon.net? www.teglerizer.com
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at
> comcast.net
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 17:56:16 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info.
Message-ID:
??? <CANzE1bHTAfMfTqkt3Z2iOAMwz26dquED7gzeU8hWZchrp6azyQ at mail.gmail.com>
Like Randall - I had early failures on new Lucas Sport coils.? Now I use a
50-year-old Lucas Sport coil with a similar one for my on board spare.
Those old ones seem to be very long-lived (and look good too).
Geo
On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 10:45 AM, Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>
wrote:
> Hello List:
>
> Thinking of replacing my 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on the TR2; still
> works well, but would like to keep it as my "get me home" spare. Wondering
> what the current wisdom on coils is? Stick with the Lucas Sport or a
> Bosch?? Have conventional ignition.
>
> Also replacing the old paper wrapped (:-)) condenser with one received
> from TRF with a points kit. Happen to have a bunch of condensers from my
> old Volvo B18 days (Lucas distributor). Would they work with the TR points?
> Do condensers have an ohm rating?
>
> Thanks for any insights.
>
> Angelo Graham
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 22:19:32 -0500
From: Patrick Baize <pbaize at satx.rr.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves
I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get
caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves"
Patrick
71 Stag
74 Spitfire
68 chevy c10
On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote:
> Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty
> hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first.
> ...glues and goos...easy to change'em
>
> ...use to just use them to go to the can.
>
> heavy work the mech gloves come out
>
>
> ptegler
>
>
> On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote:
>> I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a
>> hundred.? I guess the main reason I use them is because they are
>> available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them.
>>
>> I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot
>> of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but
>> after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep
>> working.
>>
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>>
>
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 03:15:19 -0400
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'David Templeton'" <davidt at opentext.com>,
??? <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a ignition redux...
> *??? Do I replace the nut with another brass one from Moss
> etc? Another supplier
> *??? Do I replace the nut with a standard steel ( stainless one? )?
> *??? Do I replace all of the nuts, now suspect of the
> strength of the rest of the 60yr old nuts?
Are they all brass?? If so, I would replace all of them with original type
tall steel nuts (TRF 56675); along with new split lock washers and a
generous dab of anti-seize on the threads.? (I like the copper-based
variety.)
While it's apart, take time to chase the threads on the studs and inspect
for damage.? If your thread chaser binds or starts peeling metal from one
side of the threads, replace that stud.
I also have found that it helps to add a heavy flat washer (aka setup
washer) on the outermost studs (the ones that don't have bridge pieces),
between the lock washer and manifold.
Recheck nuts for tightness after first heat cycle, again at 500 miles, and
at normal tune-up intervals.? Eventually they will settle down, but keep
checking until they are always tight.
-- Randall?
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 09:13:29 -0400
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws
??? on the??? shift lever on my TR4A.
Good morning everyone (Pardon my rambling here),
I was having some shifting difficulties in my TR4A recently going from 1st
to 2nd and from 3rd to 4th.? After thinking the worst possible outcome
(removing the transmission again) I was relieved to determine the problem
was that the two adjusting screws on the left and right sides of the shift
lever were not set up correctly. My reason for thinking this is that after
removing the top cover, and holding it in my bench vise, the shifting
problem was still there. As I started to slowly back out the two screws, I
was at one point, able to smoothly shift from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th.
Looking on the internet for suggestions on adjusting those two screws, I
read through the Buckeye Triumph technical write up on transmission overhaul
but there wasn't much detail on this procedure. I am looking for some "been
there, done that" suggestions on adjusting those two screws. Also, should I
Loc-Tite the screws once I get them adjusted?
I am also going to replace the 3 0-rings around the shift rods while I have
the top cover off and I noticed there was oil weeping out from around the
rods (Moss vs. TRF?).? Wish me luck removing the tapered bolts on the shift
forks!!
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A-IRS
http://DavesTR4A.com
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 10:44:54 -0400
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt at fuse.net>, "'Triumphs'"
??? <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop
??? screws on??? theshift lever on my TR4A.
The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate,
tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then
back off a half turn and tighten the locknut.? Seemed to work fine on my
Stags (which have a similar lever).
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc
Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit
tighter.? Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to
take them loose.
AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't
fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings.? Herman van den
Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space.
But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and
make the standard O-rings seal very well.? I bought the Teflon version, but
I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well.? Sorry I don't recall the
size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx
(about 2/3 down)
I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there
for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is).
On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then
use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin.
But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an
earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins).
-- Randall?
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 15:58:34 +0000 (GMT)
From: Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com>
To: Patrick Baize <pbaize at satx.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves
I gotta admit I don't like wearing rubber gloves to work?on cars. ?I just use a
good hand cleaner and wash up well. ?
I do have some mechanic's gloves that are not disposable, but a thin fabric,
and I use them when something is hot.
When washing up I use Zep Heavy Duty Degreaser and/or GoJo Hand Cleaner.
Rye
1960 TR3
1963 356
1968 912
1988 Carrera
1980 BJ42
On Aug 18, 2018, at 11:58 PM, Patrick Baize <pbaize at satx.rr.com> wrote:
I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get
caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves"
Patrick
71 Stag
74 Spitfire
68 chevy c10
On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote:
Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty
hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first.
...glues and goos...easy to change'em
...use to just use them to go to the can.
heavy work the mech gloves come out
ptegler
On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote:
I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a
hundred.? I guess the main reason I use them is because they are
available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them.
I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot
of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but
after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep
working.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 16:03:48 GMT
From: "Matt" <mbarre at juno.com>
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves
Mainly after lamenting how long it takes to get clean around the fingernails I
started wearing disposable latex.Since solvents often dissolve them I added
nitrile to the mix.When I get a tear, I usually just add another glove over the
top.When you get to 4 or 5 you start to lose a little feel! For heavy duty jobs
I used the mechanix gloves but then sears, HF and others produced more budget
minded options.I have a drawer full of various options. As far as source, Sams
club used to be my go to for both latex & nitrile.A few weeks ago Walmart had
both types on sale.I also like the black HF gloves, especially the thicker
ones. I haven't had to scrub the nails in a long time but in the nuclear hot
Georgia summers, I have occasionallyhad to pour the sweat out of the gloves!?
The fingers come out shriveled some times from immersion!
---------- Original Message ----------
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 10:53:05 -0400 (EDT)
Hmmm...for years I've been buying cartons (100 ct) of Diamond Grip Microflex
examination gloves for use during doing dirt jobs (say that really really
fast?).? ...Changing oil and the like.? They aren't particularly durable, but
then I haven't experimented much to see if any such disposable gloves are.?
Does anyone have a preference or recommendation for what they like?
Thanks,Terry Smith, '59 TR3A? TS 58667New Hampshire
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 12:40:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>,
??? Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop
??? screws on theshift lever on my TR4A.
Randall,
I'd be interested in learning how you extracted the broke taper pins from the
shifting forks.
Ed Woods
> On August 19, 2018 at 10:44 AM Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate,
> tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then
> back off a half turn and tighten the locknut.? Seemed to work fine on my
> Stags (which have a similar lever).
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc
>
> Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit
> tighter.? Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to
> take them loose.
>
> AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't
> fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings.? Herman van den
> Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space.
> But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and
> make the standard O-rings seal very well.? I bought the Teflon version, but
> I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well.? Sorry I don't recall the
> size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out.
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx
> (about 2/3 down)
>
> I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there
> for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is).
>
> On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then
> use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin.
> But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an
> earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins).
>
> -- Randall?
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at
> comcast.net
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 13:20:10 -0400
From: Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net>
To: Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com>, Patrick Baize <pbaize at satx.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves
look for a product called? 'liquid glove'
It's a hand cream as such that dries. Lather it on, bury it under your
finger nails, go up your forearms a bit, dries in about 1/2 minute while
you keep rubbing it around.
...give your hands a kind of rubber pencil eraser grip, even when your
hands are greasy
Fantastic at clean up super easy to wash off with soap and water. Often
grease even wipes off with a paper towel
doesn't irritate your skin either (at least no one I know yet)
ymmv
ptegler
On 8/19/2018 11:58 AM, Rye Livingston wrote:
> I gotta admit I don't like wearing rubber gloves to work?on cars. ?I
> just use a good hand cleaner and wash up well.
>
> I do have some mechanic's gloves that are not disposable, but a thin
> fabric, and I use them when something is hot.
>
> When washing up I use Zep Heavy Duty Degreaser and/or GoJo Hand Cleaner.
>
> Rye
> 1960 TR3
> 1963 356
> 1968 912
> 1988 Carrera
> 1980 BJ42
>
>
>
> On Aug 18, 2018, at 11:58 PM, Patrick Baize <pbaize at satx.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get
>> caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves"
>>
>>
>> Patrick
>>
>> 71 Stag
>>
>> 74 Spitfire
>>
>> 68 chevy c10
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote:
>>> Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty
>>> hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first.
>>> ...glues and goos...easy to change'em
>>>
>>> ...use to just use them to go to the can.
>>>
>>> heavy work the mech gloves come out
>>>
>>>
>>> ptegler
>>>
>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>> I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a
>>>> hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are
>>>> available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them.
>>>>
>>>> I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot
>>>> of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but
>>>> after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep
>>>> working.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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