From the website below:
If a skirtless thermostat is used and the bypass blocked off there is
very little to no coolant flow through the engine until the thermostat
opens. Since heat cannot be quickly conducted away from the
cylinders, hot spots develop. These can be hot enough to cause local
boiling of the coolant into steam. The steam forces coolant back away
from the hot spots letting them get even hotter. The steam can force
the coolant out of the head and reach into the thermostat housing
where it quickly heats the thermostat. The super hot steam forces the
thermostat to fully open immediately, allowing the steam to pass into
the cold coolant of the upper hose where it rapidly condenses. The
now wide open thermostat allows cold coolant in the radiator to be
rapidly pumped into the engine with consequent rapid cooling of the
head and block. This commonly causes a cracked head and occasionally a
cracked block.
Thanks, TeriAnn, for that important web page. It proves and raises my
concern. I wish that I had a few sitting around. I was hoping someone
had successfully modified a non-skirt. I'll have to get to work on
that myself. I think it's doable. I got my TR3 last year with a
skirtless (and it had a cracked head!) so I only have some idea what
it might look like. I would really appreciate if some close-up pics
or cut-away views of the original from the list.
Hans
On Nov 26, 2011, at 9:05 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> On 11/26/11 9:37 AM, Hdefer wrote:
>>
>> The way I understand it, the manufacturer intended the skirt to
>> function as a diverter valve, i.e.:
>
> My take on the skirted thermostat is the subject of a web page that
> I have:
>
> http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/2trSite/thermostat.htm
>
> From the way people are talking I'm feeling like a thermostat
> horder. When I heard they were going NLA I picked up a few of them
> and have about 6 new originals sitting around. I wanted to be sure
> I always have a proper thermostat for my TR3.
>
> Teriann
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
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