> So far, though, I have
> found it impossible to find anyone who takes the same care that I would and
> who treats the care as I would like them to.
That's the perennial problem for all of us !!
> The problem is that the effective clutch pedal is less than it was,
Does that mean the clutch grabs with the pedal very near the floor ?
> and it
> doesn't seem to release the clutch properly - the gears grind when you try
> to select them. The release arm is attached in the central hole, as my book
> says it should be, so what could be wrong? I can bleed the hydraulics, but
> surely he wouldn't have needed to touch those?
Hard to tell ... he may have remove the slave from the car without realizing it
wasn't necessary. It certainly wouldn't hurt to bleed it a little, and see if
you get any air out of it.
> Any advice would be much appreciated. I'd like to fix it myself rather than
> go back to the mechanic with it.
If the hydraulics seem OK, my next step would be to check for wear at any of the
points that would rob clutch motion. It's not unusual for the clevis pins to be
severely worn, especially the one at the pedal; as well as the holes they ride
in.
Another point that may have been overlooked, there are special "dowel" bolts
that locate the transmission to the rear plate of the engine. These bolts have
a full diameter smooth shank (unlike regular bolts which normally have an
undersize shank); and they fit into special holes with less clearance than the
normal bolt holes. When I did my Stag clutch a few years ago, I discovered that
the professional mechanic had simply left those bolts out (as well as several
others that were inconvenient to reach). I also discovered that the dowel bolts
for the Stag were NLA, so I made my own by threading both ends of a length of
"drill rod". Hopefully they are available for the TR6.
Randall
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