Wow. This is great! This should keep me busy for a while.
>I agree with Jim, for $900 your mechanic should at least be able to tell you
>why it doesn't run right ! Legal action may be required here. If they
>didn't fix the problem, you should get your money back. Did the engine run
>OK when you picked up the car ?
>
>
I'm not sure that he is capable of getting it right. The car did run
better when I picked it up it was warmed up.
>By 73 the US-spec engines were tuned pretty lean, so weak ignition is a
>definite suspect, IMO. Your PO didn't by any chance change the coil ?
>
>
The PO could have changed just about anything. He had installed an
electric fuel pump which was not up to the task.
I'll order a new coil tonight. BTW, I have replaced the fuel pump with
an OE mechanical one.
>73-on TR6 take a different coil than all earlier Triumphs, since they have a
>ballast resistance built into the wiring harness. The wrong coil could be
>the problem. And while I don't think it's the problem, it couldn't hurt to
>invest $10 in a set of new spark plugs, JIC. It's sometimes possible for
>spark plugs to glaze even when they're almost new, causing all sorts of
>strange symptoms.
>
>
I'm going to give it a complete tune up before I continue with the carbs.<>
>Try disconnecting and capping the line to the brake booster. A failed
>booster can be a hidden intake leak. WD-40 is more controllable when
>checking for leaks by spraying at the suspected leak point (although granted
>it's also messier). I don't recall offhand what the PCV system looks like
>on a 73, but it might also be worth disconnecting and capping it's vacuum
>line(s) as a test.
>
>
>
I will give this a try.
>Have you checked the fuel pressure ? (Temporarily tee a vacuum test gauge
>into the fuel line)
>
>
No I haven't. I will do this too. The mechanic says he did. But, at
this point....
>Is the engine warming up properly ? (cold engines require choke)
>
>
I wondered about this too. I have purchased a new thermostat. I will
install it when I do the tune up.
>Do the carb pistons rise (and more importantly fall) smoothly when lifted by
>hand ? Do the dampers have fluif ?
>
>
Even though the mechanic rebuilt the carbs. Keeping fluid in the front
one requires daily attention.
>Is the timing set to about 10 degrees BTDC with the vacuum retard
>disconnected ? (Yes, I know that's not what the book says, but it's the way
>to get the engine to run right.)
>
>
>
10 degrees BTDC it will be.
>And needing choke to run does NOT
>necessarily mean it's a carburetion problem.
>
>
Thanks for all the suggestions.
--
Dale
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