Dale,
In my book after $900, the car should run right almost no matter what the
tuning problem was!!!
Assuming it hasn't been more than a few months since the repair, I would
take it back to them and complain loudly and often, until it is right or
until they can explain why it is not right!
Good luck,
Jim Bauder
'58 TR3 (Sold and now just a memory!)
'68 TR250 (Almost ready for paint!)
Scottsdale, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dale VanCleef
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 8:08 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Stromberg probs
I have a 73 TR6. The PO did a frame off restoration and the car looks
good. This is the first LBC I've owned so, even though I'm ok with a
wrench, I'm in uncharted waters. The problem is that the choke knob has
to be pulled out for the car to run. It does not run very smoothly and
I'm sure it's not making the power that it should.
After struggling with it for most of last summer, I took it to a local
mechanic who specializes in European cars. Lots of Jags,,Triumphs, and
Porches etc., were at his shop. After extracting nearly $900 from my
wallet for carb rebuilds, valve timing and and assorted other things,
the car runs SLIGHTLY better than before. I must point out that this
mechanic came highly recommended by a couple of other LBC owners.
So, here's my question. What could cause the car to require the choke
to run? I haven't been able to locate any leaks... but it was windy
when I tried the propane test. Could the carbs be jetted wrong?
There's no way for me to know if they are the originals. I have quite
of few manuals and catalogs (which often have better exploded views
IMO). I can't tell if the vacuum lines are correct. I would hope that
the mechanic would have spotted that for $900!
I doubt that my finance department (a.k.a. my lovely wife) will like the
idea carb replacement.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Dale VanCleef
'73 TR6 - CF985U
---SCCA - 337056
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