David Brister wrote:
>You can get it near to 4 degrees static by jacking up one back wheel, then
>turning it in top gear (which is an easy way to turn the engine in either
>direction)
>
FWIW - I find it easier to have it in 4th and move it by pushing on the
top of the LF tire. Lots of leverage and you can see the mark while you
do it.
>...Then with your vernier adjustment in the middle and the
>distributor clamping screw loose, and the points correctly gapped, with the
>aid of a timing light fiddle around till you just have the points breaking.
>Clamp it and go out on the road.
>
Just to clarify, I think David is refering to a 'test light'... not the
type of ignition timing light used with a running engine. Test lamps
work great, but I use a cheapo Radio Shack digital multimeter with an
audible continuity tester -- beeps until the points open. Makes it easy
to watch the mark while listening for the beep to stop.
In case you haven't realized it -- your 'weird' firing order of 2-1-3-4
is correct though usually expressed as 1-3-4-2. And yes, the hole in
the pulley should be TDC.
Geo Hahn
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