It is not possible to correct this with the engine and transmission in the
car. The little bolts holding the aluminum housing to the block will not
come out with the flywheel in place.
You can either pull the engine / transmission, or just pull the
transmission. It is guaranteed to leak without the spring attached.
Here's how I did the last one:
1. Remove transmission
2. remove flywheel
3. Remove pan
4. remove main caps
5. Pry the crank down just a little bit -- that's all it will come down --
rods don't have to be disconnected from crank. Remember the two bolts
through the front plate and into the front main cap.
6. Now you can get the whole thing loose and fix it
Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings.
At 05:52 PM 8/4/2004, Jeff Tedder wrote:
>The instructions for my rear main seal that was obtained from BP
>Northwest and installed about a year ago stated to grind the crank down
>to 64mm +/- 0.1mm. Unfortunately (for me), the instructions DID NOT say
>to hook the spring to itself that came with the kit - only to put it
>into the seal groove. So guess what? Now I get to change the seal
>before I have even started the motor.
>
>Anybody have an opinion if this will REQUIRE the rear main cap to be
>removed? Or is it possible to separate the two seal shells, hook the
>spring, and put the shells back in without taking the pan off? I have
>one opinion that says yes, but my recollection was that there wasn't
>enough room between the block and the flywheel flange to get the shells
>out. Anyone replaced this?
>
>TIA
>
>Jeff Tedder
>'66 & '67 TR4A
uncle jack
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