>Hi Angelo,
>In the last couple of years I have experienced all degrees of
>stubborn-or-rusted-snapped-1/4"-square-nuts-in-a-cage, having just dealt
>with every captive nut on my entire TR3 body (not that it's finished
>yet..) on my TR3.
>The answer to your question will entirely depend on the condition of the
>cage. My suggestion is to give it a try, as in some cases it will work,
>but be prepared to have to slice out the works and replace in any given
>case. Order up about 30 cages and 50 square nuts and go for it. (In some
>locations you can pry open one side of the cage, replace the old with a
>new nut, and close the cage again.)
>As far as how to do it - I met with some success by drilling a very small
>pilot hole, then going up to ~5/32", by which time a fair amount of heat
>had been imparted to the "assembly". More heat from a propane torch, till
>the nut glows red, alternating with lots of PB Blaster (which I import
>each time I am over the border) and then once in a while, a bolt extractor
>actually did work. The moment you snap off a bolt extractor, move directly
>to phase 2: put a cutting disc on your grinder and slice out the offending
>section. (You will get pretty handy at welding sheet metal if you aren't
>already.) You can get bolt extractors from Cdn. Tire that have a lifetime
>guarantee so you can just keep going back replacing them for free.
>Best regards,
>Jim Wallace
>2TS81417L
>==========================================================
>Hello List:
>Asking about successful methods listers have used to extract broken bolts
>from various areas. Thinking specifically of broken bolts in the captive
>nuts on various body/fender mounting spots. Is it worth fooling around with
>extractors and the like or is it better to bite the bullet and cut off the
>captive nut/cage and re-install a new one?
>Any advice?
>Thanks in advance for any hints.
>Angelo Graham
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