Gents-
A different approach- I'll bet the surface on side of the rotor
is rougher ( more rough?) than the other-
I think this occurs over time as splashes from puddles and car washing
affect the outer side of the disk more than the inner side, which is
protected to some degree by the tin splash shield. As the outer side
rusts, and is periodically scraped clean (by the pad) during use, the
surface deteriorates and become more aggressive to the pad. I think
you'll agree that an older disk usually has differing degrees of roughness
on the inside vs the outside? Having said that, I'd still go with the
semi-stuck piston hypothesis. I've found that if you have to use a
clamp/press/BF screwdriver to move the pistons back when changing pads,
you'll be rebuilding the calipers fairly soon. If they don't move
easily, there's trouble brewing!
Regards,
Bob Westerdale
59 3A TS36967
> In thinking about the front end geometry, there's a couple of degrees of
> positive camber or so on this car. While the caliper is aligned to the
> vertical link (in theory, maintaining orientation with the rotor with
> the positive camber), that positive bias also causes the rotor to rub
> more on the outside pad, because of bearing play. If the bearing play
> were slightly excessive (not enough to cause noticeable bearing wear),
> the rotor will tend to lean more into the outboard pad, causing some
> additional wear.
Michael, can you amplify a bit more on this theory ?
The TR2/3 do indeed have a bit of positive camber (supposedly to move the
contact patch closer to the steering axis and reduce steering effort), and
the bearings are supposed to be quite loose compared to other cars, but I
don't understand what this has to do with either bearing play or the rotor
moving in only one lateral direction relative to the brake caliper/pads.
TIA
Randall
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