Have you checked that power is present at the positive side of the coil when
you turn on the ignition? It sounds strongly like the fusebox (a common
source of lousy connections in addition to the ignition switch). If you are
absolutely sure that you haven't got a poor connection at the end of the
coil hot wire, then be sure of the little soft coil grounding strap inside
the distributer. If that is faulty, installed on the wrong side of the
insulators or loose at one end then you could get the sort of activity you
describe.
Good luck,
Mark Hooper
-----Original Message-----
From: Divits@aol.com [mailto:Divits@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2002 5:34 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Need some Ignition - Coil advise! The Saga Continues
Well, heres the latest update. Today I replaced the coil, condenser,
distributor cap and rotor arm. I tested the wires going to the coil and they
are all good. Once I had replaced everything the car started right up! I
then
decided to take it around the block but as soon as I got out of the driveway
it went dead...and would never restart. What could possible be wrong? With
the key turned on I am getting no spark at all anywhere?!?! Am I missing
something?
Please help
Thank you all for all your help!!
John
1968 TR250
Original Message
First of all thanks for all the responses I got!!
I took all of your advise that my problem might not be the coil but maybe
the
wires are bad or even the condenser. So I ordered from TRF a coil, condenser
and some ignition wire. I figured I would play it safe and replace all
possible causes.
Well, the parts arrived today and I first replaced the coil...car still
wouldn't turn over. Then I popped the distributor cap to replace the
condenser. As I was about to unscrew the old condenser I noticed some small
parts (piece of metal and a mangled spring) laying inside?!?!?!? I
immediately looked under the distributor cap and saw that the brush and
spring had somehow broken off!?!? After further examination I saw that the
inside of the rotor arm had been broken (I assume that the way the spring
was
all mangled that it must have gotten caught on the rotor causing that to
break!?
So I just called TRF and ordered a new distributor cap and rotor arm. I
should get them some time late next week. I'll let everyone know how
everything works out with that.
However I do have another question. What is the proper Points Gap for a
TR250?
Thanks again,
John McGreal
1968 TR250
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|