From: Dave Massey <105671.471@compuserve.com>
Very good advice from Dave.
I've done the job myself as a 17 year old (very frustrating . . and not too
bright)
I did it a couple years back with my brother's help.
MUCH MUCH MUCH easier.
I did it again last year before VTR with only my wife's help.
(She held the wrench on the other side of the fire wall.)
Still MUCH easier.
>>>>>>>>
Fifth, when reinstalling, remove one or more of the studs in the top center
of the block and replace it (them) with much longer ones. These will help
guide the transmission into place.
>>>>>>>>
Very True.
TR4 (and probably 3) Clutch Slave Cylinder Adjustment rods work very well for
this purpose. .. although they can bend, in the process if you aren't careful.
>>>>>>>>
Sixth, watch the clutch release lever. I likes to get cought on the floor
board and moving the transmission toward the engine will push the
through-out bearing off the end of the transmission nose piece. Then you
have to pull the transmission back and start all over.
>>>>>>>>
Amen Brother. BTDT
Get yourself some twine or a couple of long tie wraps and run it though the
hole in the end of the lever and one of the nearest bolt holes in the bell
housing. Cinch it up and it will keep the shaft from rotating and dropping the
TO bearing.
Once the tranny is mated up to the engine, cut the twine / tie wrap off before
the securing the tranny to the engine.
As far as alignment. . . Dave is right on there too.
keep futzing with the two jacks. . one holding the tranny and one holding the
back of the engine . . once you get the right angle they will slide togther
easliy. (assuming you've got the splines aligned also)
Get the wrong angle and all the force it the world won't make it go together
correctly.
Good luck.
and definitely check that pin holding the fork on the clutch shaft.
They are almost always broken.
Scott Tilton
TR6 everyday
TR4 every now and then (needs a clutch TO bearing!)
in Leesburg, VA
See you at the gathering.
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