Message text written by INTERNET:Volare340@aol.com
>The throwout bearing in my 74 TR6 is noisy and I hate to do it but I am
going
to attempt clutch replacement at home for the first time. I have the shop
manual for general reference - any tips, secrets, warnings anyone can
share?
Do's and Don'ts? The old "if I had to do it over again, I would or
wouldn't
do..."? I rate my mechanical abilities at fair but I am a good parts
changer.
How much of the interior has to come out? And, the thing I am worrying
about
is lining everything up and keeping it that way before it goes back
together.
I hear it's easy to bend something.
<
Tom, being an old hand to transmission swaps, let me suggest a few things.
First off, you'll need another set of hands. Most all of the bolts
holding the transmission to the engine are held on fith nuts. This means
you need a wrench on both sides. Many of them can not be reached at the
same time (unless you have VERY long arms). I've pulled transmissions by
my self and it involves proping a wrench on a bolt leaning against the
block whilst I run around and work the ratchet on the nut. It is much
easier with a friend.
Second, have two jacks on hand. You'll need one to hold up the engine and
another to help support the transmission. You can manhandle the
transmission if you are young and strong and out to prove something but if
you can support the transmission with a jack you will not feel so rushed to
get it in place.
Third, remove both seats, all the carpets you can and the parking brake
lever (necessary to get the tunnel off).
Fourth, removal is straight forward.
Fifth, when reinstalling, remove one or more of the studs in the top center
of the block and replace it (them) with much longer ones. These will help
guide the transmission into place.
Sixth, watch the clutch release lever. I likes to get cought on the floor
board and moving the transmission toward the engine will push the
through-out bearing off the end of the transmission nose piece. Then you
have to pull the transmission back and start all over.
Seventh, when engaging the clutch splines, put the transmission in fouth
grear and rotate the shaft back and forth to get the splines to line up.
Eighth, push and wiggle. Don't force the transmission onto the clutch,
coas it on. Move it up and down, righ and left and when the alignment is
just right it will "pop" into place (usually).
Good luck.
Dave
Addendum:
4A) when you buy your clutch get a clutch centering tool!
4B) this job is a PITA so don't scrimp. Make all the work as worthwhile as
possible. I suggest you pull the flywheel and have it resurfaced
(deglaized) and your clutch will be soooo smooooth...
4C) check the pilot bushing (easy to do once the flywheel is off). Replace
it if you like, they are not expensive.
4D) a light coat of lithium grease on the pilot bushing, transmission input
shaft splines and the nose piece (the stationary tube the surrounds the
transmission input shaft). The throw-out bearing carrier rides on this
piece and a little lubrication makes for smooth operation.
4E) while you have the transmission out, check the taper pin in the fork.
(Shipwright's disease alert!). It there is any wiggle between the fork and
the shaft, fix it now.
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