> Engine started "cutting out," it would stop firing completely while
> driving and then would fire and run again for awhile only to cut out
> again later.
This has got to be an ignition fault. My first guess would be a broken wire
inside the dizzy, followed by bad condensor. Note that with a bad condensor
or coil, it's perfectly possible to have a visible spark that will not
ignite the fuel/air mixture. (My previous TR3A once spent the weekend in a
Lafayette impound yard with exactly this problem.) You also shouldn't have
had any trouble whatsoever removing the dizzy without turning the
engine/camshaft (it normally just lifts out), so I'd also pull the dizzy
itself apart to inspect. A severe failure of the advance mechanism could
also cause this sort of problem.
> Your ideas, comments, suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> in advance.
Rob, you have my sympathies. I know it's hard to have spent so much money
only to have major problems once again.
With the timing cover off, it should be easy to verify whether it's the
crank or the cam that is locked. From your description, I would guess it's
the crank, since there would be a small amount of movement possible with
only the cam locked. Assuming this is the case, I would proceed by first
pulling out the spark plugs, then removing the head and oil pan. This can
all be done without removing the front apron (if you haven't already).
After that, I'm afraid it's "pull the engine time" again.
Randall
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