Shayne :
That's it precisely !
Another possibility is the MC not being assembled correctly, but since
Roger's is new, that's unlikely here.
The fluid spurting when a bleed valve is cracked, and especially the
brake light staying on (TR3s have a pressure operated brake light
switch), pretty well proves that the problem is either the MC itself, or
the line between the brake light switch and the MC.
Randall
59 TR3A
PETERSON SHAYNE wrote:
>
> I have never had this problem, nor have I ever even diagnosed it,
> therefore, I may be way off base.
>
> I believe this problem crossed the list a little while ago and it was
> caused by the master cylinder not returning to the 'home' position
> fully. This would make sense, as the reservoir would not be open to the
> loop and the pressure would not bleed out of the system properly. The
> pressure would also increase as friction induced heat increased from the
> pads rubbing on the rotors.
>
> If others on the list could throw in their $.02, to verify my diagnosis,
> it would be a much appreciated sign that I am beginning to get the hang
> of this stuff (all things lbc).
>
> Shayne Peterson
> 63 TR4
>
> Roger Colson wrote:
> >
> > Hello fellow listers,
> >
> > I am now able to drive my TR3 under it's own power. Spent most of the
> > morning adjusting the mixture. Some first timer mistakes slowed me
> > down.
> >
> > A major problem is that I believe the brakes appear to be locking up
> > after a short trip. After about 200 feet they start to bind and then
>shortly
> > there after the engine bogs down trying to move the car. After waiting
> > the car will roll again but then go through the same routine. Last time I
> > noticed that the brake pedal was hard, so I looked and the brake lights
> > were on. So I opened one of the caliper bleeders and a small amount of
> > brake fluif spouted out. I was then able to get the car back in the
> > garage.
> >
> > The brakes have been done over this winter. New master cylinder.
> > rebuilt calipers. SS pistons. New pads. SS hardlines. SS braided
> > hoses. New rear cylinders. New rear shoes. The rotors were fine, with
> > lots of metal left, and the drums were like new.
> >
> > What I would like help with is in trying to diagnose and repair this
> > problem.
> >
> > What would cause the brake pressure to build up? Several times I did
> > not even touch the brake pedal.
> >
> > What I plan on checking is:
> >
> > What appears to be rubbing.
> > Could the pads be too thick? The rotors were hardly worn. The pads
> > were a little snug when installing.
> >
> > Could the caliper be off center? Forcing one pad to always be in
> > contact.
> >
> > I will re-check the rear brake adjustment.
> >
> > As I write this message I am thinking of more things to check.
> >
> > Is there freedom of movement in the hand brake pawls with the hand
> > brake off?
> >
> > If I need to, I will pull the rotor and have it checked for truth.
> >
> > I won't be able to get to the car until Tuesday evening. So I can read
> > responses sent directly to the list in the list digest.
> >
> > Thank you,
> > Roger
> > Hoping to make it to the show Fathers Day.
> >
> > Roger Colson
> > 57 TR3 TS21383L
> > sassamon@mediaone.net
> > http://people.ne.mediaone.net/sassamon/TS21383L
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