Hi Philip,
I think you will find the spokes are chrome over mild steel if this is the
case and you have micro bubbles under the chrome you should consider the
fact that unless you can clean this right back or remove completely it will
continue to deteriorate. (any one else have that feeling).
To clean right back and having access to a shot blast cabinet at work, I
would wrap several layers of tape (duct or masking) round the leather bits
to protect them from shot then blast very carefully avoiding directing the
shot right at the leather bit, I would use some form of treatment on the
leather to stop the tape from sticking. I have heard that intensive care
hand lotions are very good for leather, our neighbour used several bottles
on his Jag interior (looks good).
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Haldeman <haldeman@accessone.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 6:55 AM
Subject: Steering Wheel Reconditioning
>
> I finally found a 14.5" TR6 steering wheel in a junk yard this afternoon.
> It's in good, restorable condition, I think, especially since I'll be
> painting the spokes black (to simulate my 15" '72 wheel). The spokes have
> some minor rust along the back edges of the spokes and a few surface spots
> (and micro-bubbles) in front. The spokes appear to be stainless steel,
but
> I don't know the actual material. The leather rim feels smooth and
supple,
> but is quite dry and dull in appearance. The wheel has been out in the
> weather for some time, right there in the open car. I talked the guy down
> to $15, so I haven't got much to lose if I can't bring it back to concours
> shape!
>
> (1) What would be a good procedure for preparing the spokes for painting,
> and
> (2) What product or products should I use to recondition the leather rim?
> (For starters, I was going to clean it with saddle soap, but my wife said,
> "Phil, you don't know a thing about dried-out leather, and you can let it
> sit for one more night until you get some expert advice!")
>
>
|