Roger, I posted this a few days ago also but this is the vital info.
Motor is advertised as 60% more power and it uses a squirrel cage fan
instead of the old blade fan.
Bud
TR4-6 heater upgrade kit 812301X 56.40 (pounds)
Moss Manchester
113-117 Stockport Road
Cheadle Heath, Stockport
Cheshire, SK3 OJE
Tel 0161 480 6402
Fax 0161 429 0349
They are also available through M & G International,Manchester, 0161
7739678, and M & G International, Merseyside, 0151 6661666.
Roger Helman wrote:
>
> What is this Upgade option. My fan is out and on the blink. The bushings are
> very worn.
>
> Thanks Roger
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 7:31 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Heater Fan Question and Suggestions (long)
>
> Brad Kahler ask me this question and I thought the list might be interested
> in
> the answer too.
>
> Brad wrote: In your opinion is the fan upgrade worth it? I assume all it
> does
> is replace the motor itself or does it also replace the fan? That works out
> to
> around $75 plus shipping. Rather expensive for a little more air movement.
>
> Answer:
>
> It upgrades the motor (advertised as 60% more power...which I think does
> happen
> but 60% of not a lot is still not a lot) and replaces the blade fan with a
> squirrel cage fan, which is more efficient.
>
> If for some reason you have to get into the heater box like I did to pull a
> leaking heater core then it is very worth it, since pulling the heater box
> is a
> lot of work and it's one of those...well as long as I've gone this far I
> might
> as well go ahead and upgrade.... And it does blow more air. You can
> actually
> hear air flow.
>
> I don't think it's worth it JUST to increase air flow or heat since there's
> some
> other things that you can do to improve that such as: 1) backflushing the
> heater
> core, 2) vacuuming twenty some years of leaves off the heater core by
> accessing
> through the scuttle vent (my heater core was about 20% covered/clogged with
> leaves that had no place to go) with a small hose duct taped to your shop
> vac,
> or by GENTLY blowing air (back flushing) through the heater core via the
> bottom
> flap on the heater box while the scuttle vent is open, 3) closing the dash
> and
> floor vents (swivel ones) when using the heater and defrost, and 4) opening
> the
> scuttle vent when using the heater or defrost.
>
> Lot's of people don't realize the scuttle vent should be open (and I didn't
> until I read it here on the list) or there's no air source for the fan and
> air
> flow is GREATLY reduced. I told a guy in the RMTC about this yesterday at
> the
> club breakfast...he had a 4A that he was complaining about poor heating but
> he
> didn't have an owner's manual (which is apparently one of the few places
> that
> tells how to operate the heat/demist/vent system) and didn't know to open
> the
> scuttle vent.
>
> Nothing like experience to be a good teacher so I thought I'd share what
> I've
> learned the hard way.
>
> Air Vent Control (the bottom flap on the heater box) Positions/Functions on
> MY
> TR6.
>
> 1) Knob all the way in. Open scuttle vent and open the dash and floor vents
> to
> get ambient air temperature air flow. Air flow is only through the air vent
> hoses and none through the heater core.
>
> 2) Knob pulled out to first click. Open scuttle vent and close the dash and
> floor vents. Air flow is through the heater core and then through the
> demister/defrost hoses only. Pull heater control valve knob/cable to get
> heated
> air.
>
> 3) Knob pulled all the way out. Open scuttle vent and close the dash and
> floor
> vents. Air flow is through the heater core and then mostly out the bottom
> of
> the heater box onto your feet with maybe a little through the
> demister/defrost
> hoses. Pull heater control valve knob/cable to get heated air. This is how
> I
> get maximum heating in the cockpit.
>
> Look at a heater box in a manual or catalog and you'll see where the various
> air
> vent and demister/defrost hoses connect and the position of the heater core
> and
> it'll make more sense.
>
> I'm sure the list will have some other good suggestions. Let's hear em.
>
> Hope you'll all be warmer.
>
> Bud
>
> 71TR6 CC57365
> 71TR6 CC65446
> 66TR4A CFC57806
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