For those of you who may need to replace tie rod (TR) ends and
Silentbloc bushings on your TR3, I offer the following step-by-step
instructions. When faced with this prospect myself, I really couldn't
find a set of "cookbook" type instructions (Bentley, Haynes, Kenneth
Ball and Glenn notwithstanding) so I just plunged ahead.
Disclaimer: As they say on TNN's Shade Tree Mechanic though, all necessary
steps may not be described here and additional info may be required...or
words to that effect. Bottom line is, the following is what I did and it
worked for me...Your results, and methods, may vary. We're talking steering
here, folks...caution and care are extremely important!
NOTE 1: This is for REPLACING these items, not re-using. If you intend to
re-use any parts, you may want to reconsider some of the "remove by banging
with a big hammer" procedures or you may ruin threads)
NOTE 2: It's probably a good idea to measure and make note of the distance
between the centers of the tie rod ends (on both sides) before disassembly
so that the current "alignment" can be approximated when reassembling.
1) Disconnect negative battery terminal - no idea why, but they always
tell you to do that 8^).
2) Raise front end, support securely on jack stands and remove wheels
3) Turn steering wheel to left lock (or right, if you have a right hand
drive car) so you can disconnect from the drop arm first (helps avoid
steering box damage)
4) Remove nyloc nut holding Silentbloc bush to steering drop arm
5) Using a pickle fork, pry the silentbloc loose from the drop arm. Do
not use a hammer as this may damage the steering box components. Mine
came loose by prying only - maybe I was lucky? When it does break loose
though, be prepared as your elbow/wrist/hand (pick one) may strike the
garage floor quite abruptly - don't ask me how I know this.
6) Now, turn the wheel to the opposite lock and pry the s/b bush from
the idler arm. Since you've first disconnected from the steering box,
you should be able to use a little more force if needed.
7) Remove the nyloc nut (or castellated nut w/ split-pin) from the
outer T/R end on the idler arm side of the car (just because you're
already there).
8) Using the pickle fork, pry the outer T/R end out of the steering
link.
9) Turn steering back to the opposite lock and pop the other outer T/R
end
10) You can now pull the entire assembly (both T/R ends and Cross Link)
from the car
11) Remove the nyloc (or castellated nut w/ split-pin) from the
remaining inner T/R ends and, using a block of wood and a hammer, pound
all four T/R ends from the Tie Rods
12) Also with a hammer, remove the steel pins from the s/b bushes. All
that's left now are the rubber bushes and steel sleeves in the Cross
Link.
13) Insert a small (6" long or so) SQUARE SHANKED screwdriver between
the bush and the sleeve. Turn it as though driving a screw. The square
shank will cause it to "walk" it's way around the bush, breaking the
bond between the two.
14) Push the rubber bush out with a larger screwdriver or other
suitable tool
15) Clamp one end of the Cross Link in a large vice and, using a
suitably sized socket (just a hair less that the diameter of the hole in
the Cross Link) and a large hammer (I used a 2lb, I think, hand sledge),
force the steel sleeve out of the hole. (You might not want to use your
best socket - minor denting, but not too bad). Same with other end.
16) If you don't have access to a press, take the Cross Link and the
new silentbloc bushes to a machine shop or your local mechanic (not
necessarily LBC). Mine pressed the new ones in in about 2 minutes - no
charge. Make sure they put 'em in in the right direction - I marked mine
with masking tape and drew an arrow on it ...if I hadn't been watching, he
STILL would've put 'em in upside down!
17) Thread new T/R ends to tie rods
18) Insert new inner T/R ends into cross link and torque nylocs to the
correct specification
19) Insert assembly (cross-link and both tie rods) back into the car
20) Insert silentblocs into both drop arm and idler arm, turning
steering as needed to allow access
21) Using new nyloc nuts (by the way, these are not included when you
buy from Moss, although they ARE included with Moss' T/R ends) torque
both to spec
22) Insert outer T/R ends into steering link and torque nylocs to spec
23) To complete the job, you'll need to adjust the length of both tie rods
and tighten the two lock nuts on them. That should be done in conjunction
with an alignment (actually, that IS the alignment), but if you're going to
drive it to a shop for this part of the job, be sure to approximate the
alignment by setting the length of the tie rods to match the original
setting (before disassembly - see NOTE 2 above) and tighten the nuts before
driving.
I haven't figured out the best method for a home-brewed alignment yet,
but have a few ideas. Guess I could actually spend the money and let a
pro do it, but since it seems so straightforward, would like to at least
try it myself first. Will post "how-to" if successful...or "would
recommend a pro" if not. 8^)
Hope this helps.
--
Michael Ferguson
Vernon CT
1959 TR3A TS53990L
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