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Re: 1978 Spitfire help needed!

To: Hayes <htjhayes@mysurf.com>
Subject: Re: 1978 Spitfire help needed!
From: "Charlie B." <cb1500@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 18:24:04 -0400
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
References: <19971021045650.AAA468794@htjhayes.mysurf.com>
Hayes,
> 
> I recently installed an oil pressure gauge to my 1978 Spit. I get readings
> of around 70 when I
> first start it up, then around 30-35 when hot. I can live these with
> readings, but here is the problem:
> 
> When I brake hard at an intersection or round a long turn at high speed,
> the oil pressure drops to nearly zero. I have checked the oil numerous
> times and keep it right on the full mark. Its eaten the third rod bearing
> before and I really would like to avoid an expensive and time consuming
> rebuild again. Now I know there is a lack of baffles in the pan, but I
> believe it should not drop so low as to damage the motor! Is there anyone
> out there who has experienced this problem before and found a solution? Or
> is it something I may have done wrong when rebuilding it? Any help on this
> would be greatly appreciated.

Two things come to mind regarding the oil pressure. First are you sure 
you have the original dip stick? Is it possible a longer stick is in 
place, giving you the appearence of a normal level, when in reality it's 
too low. When you do an oil change, the sump should hold 4 quarts, even. 
That should put the level on the stick just slightly above halfway. Next 
thing and a biggie, do you have the correct, i.e. later model, angled 
oil pump? From about '75 on. the engines had an angled pick up. I've 
never had both types in my hands at the same time to do a side-by-side 
comparison. My guess is that the offset puts the pickup closer to the 
center of the sump, where the level will remain at a more consistant 
level. 
> 
> Since a clutch transplant, I've been hearing some strange noises
> occasionally from the area of the gearbox. It usually rattles only off and
> on, but sometimes it does not stop. If I brake just right when coasting to
> a stop in neutral, it goes away. It does not matter if my clutch is in or
> out, or whether it is warm or cold. I suspect the throw-out bearing, which
> I did not change with the clutch rebuild, (I know, I know.) Here is why: I
> orded the three in one clutch kit for my model spitfire. The pressure
> plate and disc fit fine, but my release bearing had a pin  to secure it,
> but the one from Moss did not. Maybe I am mechanically inept, but I just
> could not figure it out. By the way, I have an overdrive tranny if that
> makes any difference. Is it possible that the clutch fork is from another
> car, or is there a way to get the bearing on that I do not know about?
> 
> When I wind the motor up above 3500 in any gear I can hear a fairly loud
> and rapid ticking noise from the engine or gearbox. It makes this noise
> also when the motor revs down after depressing the clutch. It goes away
> when I am on the gas but comes back under no-load conditions. Any ideas?
> Could it be another release bearing symptom, or, god forbid, it dropped
> its thrust washers? I could not detect any movement at the crank pulley
> when the clutch was depressed by a friend, but you never know.
> 

A bad throw out bearing will make noise, or changes noise or pitch, when 
you depress the clutch pedal. What you describe sounds more like a bad 
input bearing on the tranny. What happens with the car at rest, engine 
running at 3500 rpm and the clutch depressed. Does the sound lighten or 
go away? 

Do you know for sure your diff bearings are shot? Or, is the diff 
whining from a worn crown and pinion? 

Charlie B.



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