John Haynes wrote:
>
> At 06:56 PM 8/7/97 -0700, Mark Stahlke wrote:
> >Thanks to all who responded to my questions about the TR6 vacuum retard
> >switch. The issue is much clearer now (sorta). Thanks.
> >
> >Next up:
> >Tomorrow morning I'm taking my TR6 to a local shop recommended by a member of
> >the Rocky Mountain Triumph Club to get an estimate on repairing my cracked
> >diff mounts. I understand this is fairly common problem on the TR6. I'd like
> >to know if anyone out there has been through this and what your experiences
> >were. What would be a resonable cost for this repair?
> >
> >Thanks again,
> >Mark
> >
> > when you say cracked diff. mounts, I asume it is the diff mounting
> studs pulling loose from the frame and cracking it. The proper way would be
> to lift off the frame. Short of this the best easy fix I have seen is with
> threaded rod. Remove the diff. The 4 bolts are welded to the frame at the
> top and bottom. The bottom can be gotten to easily an repaired by
> fabricating and welding in new metal. If the bolts at the top have weakened
> or broken loose, they need to be removed. Cut a 16 ga. or larger plate with
> a hole in it the size of the rod and stud. Cut it so that it overhangs the
> upper part of the frame about l/2 inch. Place the plate atop the frame, run
> the threaded rod thru the lower part of the frame, run a nut and lockwasher
> 2 inches down the rod, run the rod thru the upper part of the frame and the
> plate, place a nut on the rod between the body and plate above the frame,
> align, tighten the lower nut. Being careful of the gas tank (drain it and
> fill it with water) and the undercoating, weld the plate to the frame along
> the overhang. Weld the rod to th lower part of the frame. Cut the rod to the
> proper length
> Sam Haynes TR3 Original Owner
Mark,
No offense to Sam here but...
You don't have to remove the body from the frame to do this repair
properly. My 73 diff mounts were accessed by cutting a panel through
the body behind the passenger seat. There was no pain here because the
DPO had already chopped into the area with tin snips or a can opener or
something to do a horrible threaded rod/angle iron "repair". Original
diff mount pins were welded into place, and then reinforcements were
welded to the mounting brackets to box in the sections. (check out the
TRF 2 volume spare parts catalog for illustrations) With the advice from
many on this list, the job went smoothly and I've had nary a problem
since. If you have questions, feel free to e-mail me directly.
Chad Stretz
73 TR6 CF7511U
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