Dan Masters wrote:
(Brian N.) writes:
Had these problems/solutions. However, I think > the metal tabs on the
tail light sockets loose some of their spring > power over time from heat,
age, ?, and they make a poor connection on > the bulbs. This leads to
more heat which leads to less spring which > leads to more . . . .
> Anyone found a replacement socket of better design than the old that
> will fit inside the lens?
Brian:
Are the sockets on your Spitfire the same as on the TR6? Every one of the
sockets on my project '71 TR6 were non-operable. It turned out the brass
piece that makes contact with the bulb, and connects to the ring with the
spring tabs, was no longer making contact with the ring (it's a lot easier
to see than it is to describe!). I repaired them by wedging a small (about
1/4" long, 18-20 Ga.) piece of solid copper hook-up wire between the brass
strip and the ring, using a pair of needle nose pliers.
++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hey guys, I found a cheap excellent solution to the same problem on my Mk I
Spifire. The little tabs that contact the bulb on the bottom wouldn't stay
aligned and were weak and breaking. What I am about to suggest is not for
"purists" at heart, but since I have never been to a concours where the
judges made one remove tail light lenses to see how the bulbs are mounted
underneath, I think even purists could try this.
The bulb on the Spit rear lights is a "bayonet" mount. Assuming you all
have the same type of mount, go to your local Pep Boys, or other auto
supply store. Purchase two approx. 4 inch round trailer lights for about
$5 each (the kind that have a black metal case/body and are a combination
stop/tail lamp). Remove the lens and the bulb, take a small grinder or
Dremel mototool, and grind the back of the case where the bulb socket is
typically riveted through the back of the case. This will allow you to
remove the socket from the case. You are now holding a brand new, spring
loaded socket with clean contacts and new wires.
To mount this inside the tail lamp, I used emory paper to remove all paint
from the OUTSIDE of the socket. I then used a pair of tin snips to cut the
existing socket inside the taillamp housing vertically, then spread apart
the existing socket slightly until the new socket would literally drop into
the old socket (well, okay, I had to push it in for a snug fit). I then
used a pair of pliers to squeeze the old socket halves back together,
tightly trapping the new socket inside the old one. The body of the new
socket is grounded by contact with the old socket. I then carefully
spliced the new wires to the existing wires and voila! I now have bright
operable stop and tail lamps.
The beauty of this is (1) it is cheap, (2) it is easy, (3) it is cheap, (4)
the parts are easy to find, (5) it is cheap, (6) replacement bulbs can be
obtained anywhere, (7) did I mention it is cheap?, (8) it works great, and
(9) it is totally invisible from the outside. Hope this helps. Total cost
was about $10 and total time was about 30 minutes. Regards,
Ross D. Vincenti
Asst. General Counsel/Asst. Sec'ty.
Transamerica Home Loan - Legal Division
Los Angeles, CA 90015
(213) 742-4756 phone
(213) 741-7231 or 741-6945 fax
ross.vincenti@transamerica.com
64 Spitfire 4
64 Porsche 356C Coupe
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