Bill,
Several weeks ago I installed a Lucas Sports Coil in my '73 TR6. As it is
internally ballasted, I wanted to make sure that I did not have a ballast
wire in my car. To test, I tested the voltage at the "+" terminal of the
coil with the ignition on. Sure enough - approximately 7-8 volts were
flowing, meaning the car had a ballasted ignition wire. I ran a separate
wire from the fuse block (choose a post that is live only when the ignition
is switched on) and ran it to the "+" terminal of the Sport coil. I left
the old ballasted wire in place (capped and taped - it is still live!) in
the event I ever wanted to switch back to the original coil. The whole set
up took about tem minutes - works fine - and you are now supplying the full
13.5-14.2 volts to the Sports Coil that is required.
Good Luck!
>
> Bill Wood wrote:
> >
> > To all those who have fitted a Lucus Sports Coil, what is involved in
> > fitting the +12 v wire to the coil? I fitted the Sports Coil in 1989
> > and just last week learned from this list that I am now running a
> > ballast in the wiring harness and in the coil! Surprisingly, the car
> > has run just great for all these years.
> > Bill,
>
> Everything will work normally, just not at the full potential of the
> coil. You'll need to remove the ballast resistor wire from circuit and
> run an auxilliary wire that supplies the full 12.v (actually 13.5-14.2)
> to the "+" while the ignition switch is in the "ON" position. The Lucas
> Sport coil is internally ballasted, and is designed to operate at full
> battery voltage. You can run the new wire from the back of the fuse panel
> as long as the connection is not hot all the time--stay away from
> the solid brown wires. The white circuit works on my Spitfire.
>
> Have fun,
> Charlie B.
> Spitfire Pilot
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