The clutch-hold problem surely sounds like a hydraulic problem to me...
and since opinions are free, I've taken the liberty of offering mine.
One clue might be the color of the `brake' fluid in the clutch master
reservoir--if it's dark and opaque, like old tea or coffee, and it's
stock glycol type (DOT-3, or non-silicone), then it's water-saturated
and indicates an air leak somewhere. The clutch slowly engages as the
high-pressure side leaks back into the low-pressure, just as if you'd
slowly let up on the pedal, and if the engine's idling, it stalls.
In a safe spot, hold down the clutch while in first gear, and as
soon as the engine starts to load, give it some gas. If the car starts to
creep forward with the clutch still floored, rebuild the hydraulics and
be glad you didn't start messing with the thrust washers!
Check that gasket on the clutch reservoir lid while you're at it,
that could be where the air leak is...glycol is `hygroscopic'.
PS Does anyone out there remember hearing that only Castrol brake
fluid should be used with British-made rubber parts such as clutch op-
erating cylinders, due to some incompatability of their o-rings & seals
and common US-made brake fluid?? That's in the back of my mind from
somewhere, don't know if it's true now, or ever was.
Good luck
Tom Tweed
TR-250
Miami Valley Triumphs
SW Ohio
ak627@dayton.wright.edu (FreeNet)
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