[Long blurb about poorly running GT6 w/ new ditributor and carb needles
removed]
Ok, well, I only had a few minutes to look at my car last night and take
into consideration all the messages from the list. Here's what I found
so far:
*The old distributor has a vacuum **advance**. Apply vacuum and the
unit pushes the breaker plate CCW, same as the rotor rotation.
*The new dist. has a vacuum retard. Apply vacuum and it pulls the plate
CW. According to the Haynes manual supplement section on USA cars, some
had the funky advance/retard setup with the switch on the throttle
linkage and the later ones (which mine is) has the vacuum retard only,
with the line connected to the bottom rear carb throat.
Basically I'm assuming my timing is to far retarded, hence low power.
So after work (wife permitting), I'm going to set the static timing at
the non-smog setting, 13 degrees BTDC, and see how it runs (as suggested
by Bill Woodruff). It's also been suggested by Mr. Stone to advance it
dynamically (after the static setup) until the throttle response is good
and it starts up easily.
I've been meaning to call Apple Hydraulics to see what the difference
between the two needle sets are. Does any one have their phone #
handy??
If the timing doesn't fix it, then I'll change back to the old carb
needles. Again, thanks for all the responses.
Mike
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