I put SS "Cobra" valve covers on my Mark 2 with allen screws. I have to
lower the rear of the engine (remove the frame bolts from the transmission
rear mount, with a jack under the mount and lower slowly...). The cover
fins aren't relieved in the rear like the Tiger covers so I have to tap the
engine 'round with the starter 'till the #8 rocker arms are low to get the
cover off. (The right side head is further forward; that shouldn't be a
problem on the right side of the car.)
I don't recall a problem with the allen screws.
Tom
'67 Mark 2
On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 1:21 PM, Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca> wrote:
> Hi Brad :
>
> Condolences.
>
> I have the similar alloy valve covers that have Tiger on them.
>
> I had an exhaust manifold bolt spit out on the driver's side, (you are
> lucky your leak is on the pass. side!) and the gasket damaged on a trip,
> and couldn't get at it until I returned home to my garage and the myriad of
> special tools I have made up to get at the spark plugs on the driver's
> side. Everything on that side had to be removed to get at the ex. manifold,
> including the valve cover.
>
> I had to remove the valve cover to remove the ex. manifold gasket, as the
> cover hangs out over the edge of the cyl. head, and wouldn't allow the
> gasket to pass by.
>
> That rear allen head bolt was a bugger. I got it out with a 1/4" drive
> allen key with a couple of short extensions and two universal joints.
> Ron's tip to blow out the hole is a good one. I was fortunate that I had
> installed the covers with ARP allen bolts, as they have a deep socket hole,
> into which I stuck some aluminum foil to make the key a tight fit, so it
> wouldn't drop off the key when it cleared the hole.
>
> Getting the cover off was another problem, but with some patience and
> finely honed Chinese puzzle skills, it can be removed. Just keep at it and
> try not to scratch that cool cover too much!
>
> Also, a good trick with Small block Ford valve cover gaskets is not to
> tighten up the cover bolts too much. Barely finger tight and a bit is
> enough. The steel covers distort easily and rise up almost out of contact
> between the bolts. The alloy ones crack very easily. It's amazing how well
> they seal with very little pressure.
>
> Good luck with this Brad, and happy knuckle whacking!
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "hallmotors" <hallmotors@cox.net>
> To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 12:46 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] Valve Cover Removal
>
>
> I have an oil leak from the passenger bank valve cover onto the exhaust
>> manifold (toward the back, say above about at the #3 or #4 cylinder
>> location) and thus need to remove the valve cover to install a new gasket.
>> My Tiger has the original 260 engine with LAT-8 Aluminum finned Tiger
>> Powered by Ford valve covers attached with allen head bolts. I've looked
>> at
>> what I could find in the archives on removing the valve covers but am
>> still
>> looking for advice. I basically have three questions, 1) can this style
>> valve cover be removed without dropping the engine, 2) I'm having problems
>> getting an allen wrench on the top back valve cover bolt and it appears
>> there's no firewall access hole for the passenger bank; any advice here,
>> and
>> 3) once the bolts are out, any advice on how to get the valve cover up,
>> over
>> and off.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks guys,
>>
>> Brad Hall
>>
>> Wichita, KS
>>
>> LRXFE609
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>>
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>>
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