Reproduction Hi-po alternator pulleys are available from most of the Mustang
parts houses. Not sure about the pulley/shaft diameter compatibility
though...
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 12:02 PM
To: Theo Smit; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Theo! Fantastic! Many thanks. How did you find that denso part?
The alternator case looks original but is actually 1/4" thick machined alloy.
If I can mount the denso unit in contact with the inside of the case it should
be a good heatsink. With a larger pulley and a shield over the alternator to
keep the exhaust heat off like the etypes have, I might just get away with
it.
Thanks again
Owain
On Dec 8, 2013 2:52 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hi Owain,
> I sent this to the list but it seems to be delayed for some reason...
>
>
> I found your regulator here:
> http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
> It says
> Black D-
> Yellow D+
> White B+
> Case DF
> Red B+
> Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
>
> This article
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
> has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator wiring
> as well as instructions on the last page that reference the color
> codes on the new regulator.
>
> It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
> stock-looking generator case, right?
> The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
> http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
> except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut off
> and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the brush
> terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator' terminal
> was wired to your custom installation.
>
> The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of the
> alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the original
> Denso part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so those fins
> are in the external air flow. If you're rebuilding this, I would try
> to get it so that your regulator was mounted to a heat sink with
> external fins or at least to something that has a good thermal connection to
the external case.
> Otherwise the regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
>
> This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired to
> the car's electrical system.
> http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
>
> Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire
> replacement guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on your
> bench, might be enough to get it going again.
>
> Cheers,
> Theo
>
> On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
>> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list
>> may have the expertise to help with. I have an alternator that the
>> internal regulator has failed on. Replacing the whole alternator is
>> not such an easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no
>> reason to believe the regulator would not fail again.
>>
>> The regulator used inside has 4 wires. One to the live wire, one to
>> the charge light and two to the diode bridge. I happen to have a
>> four wire Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a
>> replacement but I don't really know how it should be wired up. The
>> link below shows a pic of the Lucas regulator and more of the old
>> regulator and the wiring in the alternator.
>>
>> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I
>> could use the replacement?
>>
>> Many thanks indeed.
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
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