This one will have to be made on a lathe. No taper though so should be
easy.
On Dec 8, 2013 8:01 PM, "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com> wrote:
> Reproduction Hi-po alternator pulleys are available from most of the
> Mustang parts houses. Not sure about the pulley/shaft diameter
> compatibility though...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Theo Smit; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
>
> Theo! Fantastic! Many thanks. How did you find that denso part?
>
> The alternator case looks original but is actually 1/4" thick machined
> alloy. If I can mount the denso unit in contact with the inside of the case
> it should be a good heatsink. With a larger pulley and a shield over the
> alternator to keep the exhaust heat off like the etypes have, I might just
> get away with it.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Owain
> On Dec 8, 2013 2:52 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> > Hi Owain,
> > I sent this to the list but it seems to be delayed for some reason...
> >
> >
> > I found your regulator here:
> > http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
> > It says
> > Black D-
> > Yellow D+
> > White B+
> > Case DF
> > Red B+
> > Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
> >
> > This article
> > http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
> > has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator wiring
> > as well as instructions on the last page that reference the color
> > codes on the new regulator.
> >
> > It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
> > stock-looking generator case, right?
> > The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
> > http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
> > except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut off
> > and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the brush
> > terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator' terminal
> > was wired to your custom installation.
> >
> > The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of the
> > alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the original
> > Denso part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so those fins
> > are in the external air flow. If you're rebuilding this, I would try
> > to get it so that your regulator was mounted to a heat sink with
> > external fins or at least to something that has a good thermal
> connection to the external case.
> > Otherwise the regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
> >
> > This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired to
> > the car's electrical system.
> > http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
> >
> > Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire
> > replacement guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on your
> > bench, might be enough to get it going again.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Theo
> >
> > On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
> >
> >> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list
> >> may have the expertise to help with. I have an alternator that the
> >> internal regulator has failed on. Replacing the whole alternator is
> >> not such an easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no
> >> reason to believe the regulator would not fail again.
> >>
> >> The regulator used inside has 4 wires. One to the live wire, one to
> >> the charge light and two to the diode bridge. I happen to have a
> >> four wire Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a
> >> replacement but I don't really know how it should be wired up. The
> >> link below shows a pic of the Lucas regulator and more of the old
> >> regulator and the wiring in the alternator.
> >>
> >> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I
> >> could use the replacement?
> >>
> >> Many thanks indeed.
> >>
> >> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
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