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Re: Brake Rotors

To: "Bob Palmer" <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>, "Bruce Richards" <bruiser@ont.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Rotors
From: "Rich Atherton" <gumby@connectexpress.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 01:22:24 -0700
previosly asked ..."who decides and on what basis does it become illegal to turn
a rotor down below a certain thickness?"

    Not sure who "Actually" sets this thickness, but it is normally printed in
the casting of the rotor itself.  Iether in the hub area, or on the outer edge
of the disk.  It will say something like "Min .460 in. Thickness".    I don't
specifically remember what was printed on the Alpine's rotors when I drilled
them for ventalation, but all my other cars have had it printed in the casting.

    The main reason for the ninimum thicknes is due to heat build up and
disapation, but mostly build up.  The thinner the disk the quicker it will heat
in hard use, or a long stop from high speed, (obviously more applicable to the
Tiger with it's added performance and weight. ).  Brake fade on solid disks like
these on repeated applications becomes a real problem depending on the pad
material.  Ventalated disk are far superior to solid disk in heat disapation.
Of course we all know that.  Keeping the Sunbeams disks as thick as possible is,
in my opinion, the best way to go, especially if new rotors are still available.

    It was going to cost me $14 each to turn the rotors on my Ford Taurus, I
could get NEW police issue rotors (a bit thicker) for $17 each.  My rotors were
on their very last turn as it was.... bought new.  Very slick.  bought them
first and the new pads, and did a quick swap at each wheel, and was done in less
than 30 minutes total..

Rich



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