At 12:02 PM 10/15/2008, Weslake1330@aol.com wrote:
>The big resistor is there to stop the rectifier diodes in the
>alternator frying/self destructing when the switch is thrown with
>the engine running at an rpm above the alternator kick-in rpm. The
>resistor is a biggy.
They got Holiday Inns in UK?
;-)
Forgot to add, go to the wiring diagram link in the link.
Peter
>
>In a message dated 15/10/2008 17:52:32 GMT Daylight Time,
>peter@nosimport.com writes:
>Dave,
> I'm not an engineer, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last
>night (though I probably should have) but there is a potential
>problem shutting of the power to an alternator with regard to diodes and such.
>
> I worked on a guy's race car with alternator and was
>shocked, literally, because he had the wrong switch.
> This link, by no means an endorsement, addresses the
>alternator issue. Maybe you can understand it better than I.
>
> http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464
>
>Peter C
>====
>At 11:38 AM 10/15/2008, Dave G. wrote:
> >That's not the question I asked...
> >
> >I can use a simple circuit employing a double pole industrial 12V
> >relay switched
> >by a single pole switch to cut both lines at once or use an
> >off-the-shelf purpose
> >built switch.
> >
> >My serious question is "If I cut power from the battery *and* I cut
> >power from the
> >alternator" what's left --- doesn't that remove all power from all
> >electrical circuits
> >in the vehicle????
> >
> >On 15 Oct 2008 at 12:24, Weslake1330@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >> And is opening the circuit the lead from the alternator live or ground
> > >> and if it's live how is this thrown on the same switch as the battery
> > >> ground?
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