Yeah, Peyote is plumbed that way, and it might help. I run 16 pounds of
system pressure, but I have a non-standard cooling system. As I recall,
someone said they put a pressure gauge on the block and it was as high as 50
pounds. I don't understand exactly how that happens since the radiator and
cap are on the outlet of the pump. Seems like block pressure should be lower
than radiator pressure. The radiator constitutes a big pressure drop. Inlet
pressure can't be more than 16 pounds because that's where the radiator cap
is.
I've never really seen signs of cavitation in water pumps, and I don't know
why--seems like they should cavitate like crazy. But a pump that's
cavitating shows erosion signs in a very short time, and I've never noticed
that. They are extremely inefficient designs--straight blades or even blades
hooked the wrong way. Efficient centrifugal pumps have s-shaped rotors with
the hooked ends of the S pointed away from the direction of
rotation--exactly the opposite of the "scoop" design you might think would
be effective.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of triumph_marx@freenet.de
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 4:15 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FOT Project Pulley
To prevent cavitating coolant from the waterpump I raised the system
pressure up to 10.5 PSI. That help's a lot.
To prevent overheating of the #4 cylinder you can use the water outlet of
the heater and shortcut it into the wateroutlet that is connected to the
radiator.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry Frye" <henry@henryfrye.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: FOT Project Pulley
> At 07:45 PM 03/25/2005 -0800, Bill Babcock wrote:
> > It would be a very worthwhile endeavor to get a smaller crankshaft
pulley
> >or a larger waterpump pulley. We probably need about 60-70 percent of
> >the pump speed we have now. It would require some testing and some
engineering,
> >but it seems like a worth project. Ken--have you ever considered
> >doing something to fiddle with the pulley ratios?
>
> Remember, slowing down the water pump will further reduce the coolant
> pressure in the block. You want decent coolant pressure in the block
> to quench the steam bubbles that will form, and the inherent poor
> coolant
flow
> towards the rear of the block makes #4 the target for localized
overheating.
>
> I'd be cautious with this approach to finding more ponies, especially
> if you have had cylinder #4 overheating issues.
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